{"id":47014,"date":"2010-04-18T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2010-04-18T00:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/ghiaccio-misto\/news-ghiaccio-misto-2\/cholatse-parete-nord-nuova-via-russa\/"},"modified":"2010-04-18T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2010-04-18T00:00:00","slug":"cholatse-parete-nord-nuova-via-russa","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/boulder\/news-boulder\/cholatse-parete-nord-nuova-via-russa\/","title":{"rendered":"Cholatse North wall: new Russian route"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nIn March 2010, a strong team of Russian climbers composed by Valery Shamalo, Viktor Koval, Sasha Gukov, Galina Chibitok and Sergey Kondrashkin reached Khumbu area in Nepal, their focus being Cholatse, \u00a0an extremely steep and beautiful \u00a06, 440 m peak.&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nCholatse was summited only in 1982 from SW ridge by \u00a0Galen Rowell, Vern Clevenger, Bill O\u2019Connor and John Roskelley. &#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nOn the North face the first route was established in\u00a01984 by the Americans\u00a0Todd Bibler, Catherine Freer, Renny Jackson and \u00a0Sandy Stewart . To be mentioned the extraordinary solo by \u00a0Ueli Steck on the French route in 2005. &#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nThe Russian team headed \u00a0a rocky pillar on the right part of the North face (never scaled before), willing to \u00a0follow a direct route on \u00a0the steep compact 1, 400 m.wall.&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nThey climbed half route, but becoming Galina Chibitok seriously\u00a0ill, \u00a0the all team had to retreat \u00a0to the BC.&#013;<br \/>\nChibitok\u00a0and Kondrashkin went back home, and the others\u00a0reached the summit on March 20.&#013;<br \/>\nThe established route slashes up steep rock and mixed terrain finally joining the 1995 French route on a snow and ice ramp that diagonals across the wall to reach the west ridge, and it is likely the most difficult of Cholatse.&#013;<br \/>\nSources\u00a0Climbing e Mountain.ru &#013;<br \/>\nms&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\u00a0&#013; In March 2010, a strong team of Russian climbers composed by Valery Shamalo, Viktor Koval, Sasha Gukov, Galina Chibitok and Sergey Kondrashkin reached Khumbu area in Nepal, their focus&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8066],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-47014","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-boulder"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.5 - 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