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\nLast May 5th, we published the new of the great adventure of the Germans climbers \u00a0Jasper, Heller and Gantzhorn\u00a0and their first ascent of Mount Sarmiento’s West\u00a0summit via the North face.\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0
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\nIn our researchs\u00a0we have already found and published that in\u00a01986,\u00a0\u00a0Salvatore Panzeri, Lorenzo Mazzoleni, Bruno Pennati, Pinuccio Castelnuovo and Gianmaria Confalonieri, members of Ragni di Lecco group – had set foot on the\u00a0\u00a0West summit via the \u00a0South wall.\u00a0
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\nIn a\u00a0kind \u00a0email, a reader pointed out to us that the line of ascent of the Ragni is developed\u00a0on the North (and not South) face,\u00a0just left of the vertical descent from the top: La Odisea de Magellanes Jasper and C. climbed in 2010\u00a0is the\u00a0second\u00a0route established\u00a0on this wall, the first being the one of the\u00a0Ragni.
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\nA confusion has also helped\u00a0Lo Scarpone\u00a0(monthly newsletter of CAI – Italian Alpine Club) in March 2006, page 20, where a long article entitled "The guides are celebrating the great day of Sarmiento" (at the photo exhibition for the 50th anniversary of first ascent) reported: "The Conquest of Sarmiento –\u00a0which takes its name from the Spanish navigator Sarmiento de Gamboa –\u00a0\u00a0had a kind of "replication" in 1986 with an expeditions of Ragni di Lecco. Despite his 63 years, Gueret "Rampagarol" fought in that circumstance as a lion \u00a0and lead up to the west along the south side with Gigi Alippi, Franco Baravalle, Pinuccio Castelnuovo, Gianmaria Confalonieri, Lorenzo Mazzoleni and Bruno Salvatore Panzeri Pennati.".
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\nSome of the photos are taken from the interesting website of photographs and film maker Luciano Bovina, who released a documentary on Ragni di Lecco Sarmiento \u2018s expedition. "At 20:00 (of December 24, 1986) – entry in his logbook – the scream of Bruno, Lorenzo and Tore rolling down the slopes of Mount Sarmiento up to Camp 2 and down to beyond the channel of Magellan, 35 days after announcing that the summit unclimbed West was won.
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\nSource\u00a0UpClimbing
\nPh.: Luciano Bovina\u00a0and Ralf Gantzhorn\u00a0
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