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\nLuka Krajnc and Andrej Grmov\u0161ek\u00a0\u00a0carried out the \u00a0first free ascent\u00a0of Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande (7c, 250m) and free ascent of the magnificent Via Cattedrale (8a+ or 8a, 650m, 850m long), Marmolada.
\nSandro Pertini was established on 1981 by Umberto Marampon\u00a0and Renato Piovesan.
\nThis is the report from Grmovsek website: "As the forecast predicted strong afternoon storms on Saturday we \u201cmoved\u201d the visit of our "project" in Marmolada to Monday. My climbing partner Luka Kranjc find out \u201csomething shorter\u201d for Saturday \u2013 rarely climbed Via Sandro Pertini in the west wall of Cima Grande. The route actually wasn\u2019t climbed free jet, and although climbed as late as in the eighties, it falls in the category of techno-direttissimas.
\nWe climbed the route in 6 pitches, enjoyed unusually good rock (for the Tree Cime Group) and we managed to free all the pitches including crux one over the huge roofs. The difficulties were up to 6b, with crux around 7c. (…)
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\nAfter rainy Saturday night we spent Sunday to rest and then to move to the base of south wall of Marmolada. Over a month ago Luka and I already "opened" our project called Via Cattedrale there. Then, in the lover part of the wall, a waterfall blown by the gusty west winds made us totally wet every few minutes. We were soaked and cold and the route was quite wet in places too. However we \u201cfight\u201d to the tenth – most difficult pitch (8a or 8a+). We found out that this very technical, as well as endurance pitch will not be really easy. Luka had somehow given up, but I managed to figure out all the passages and moves. But as there would be 400 meters of climbing above us there was neither time nor power for serious free attempt.
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\nThis time the wall was totally dry, no waterfalls. We climbed fast up to the hardest pitch. Luka studied all the moves and than I try the pitch. But I mix up few of the moves in the second slaby crux. My second try went smoothly, to the belay! Perfect! I was lowered down and than Luka went for fight. To his surprise he did all the slaby cruxes and fight all to the last hard move in the overhangs…. and there he stuck. Time for yet another attempt was gone and so we speed up to the end of the route which we reached in the fog and just before the darkness.
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\nReally shame that Luka missed a free ascent by just a move, but I\u2019m shore he will free climb the route on his next visit!"
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\nHere the details of the route
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\nL1 6b \u00a035 m
\nL2 6a+ \u00a050 m
\nL3 6a \u00a0\u00a055 m
\nL4 7c \u00a035 m
\nL5 5c \u00a030 m
\nL6 6a \u00a025 m\u00a0
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\nLast year the same team carried out\u00a0the first free ascent in one day\u00a0\u00a0of\u00a0\u00a0Donnafugata 750 m. 8a at Torre Trieste in Civetta Group.
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\nSource : Grmovsek website<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
\u00a0 Luka Krajnc and Andrej Grmov\u0161ek\u00a0\u00a0carried out the \u00a0first free ascent\u00a0of Via Sandro Pertini, Cima Grande (7c, 250m) and free ascent of the magnificent Via Cattedrale (8a+ or 8a, 650m,…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8066],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-47600","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-boulder"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n