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\nIn France, and generally in Europe, are those who bolt the routes to give the name, so it was for Biographie in Ceuse in the early 90s, by the unforgettable \u00a0Jean-Christophe Lafaille.
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\nIn 1996 another famous French, Arnaud Petit, freed the first part (8c +) in this 40 meters pitch and put an anchor \u00a0at the end of this part. The second part, the missing to get to the original anchor, remains unsolved and graded 8b + with a boulder of 7C in the middle.
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\nChris Sharma made about 30 attempts between 1996 and 1997 and 2000, but fails to the boulder step of \u00a07C. In July 2001, Sharma\u00a0avoided to partecipate\u00a0to the Bouldering\u00a0World Cup held in Gap to engage himself \u00a0in Biographie. He works on it \u00a0for three consecutive days and carried out the FFA of the route, then changing\u00a0the name to Realization.
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\nIn U.S. it is customary that the name is given by the first free ascender. In 2004, the climber from \u00a0Gap Sylvain Millet did \u00a0the first repeat of the route that for French climbers is Biographie and not Realization, although eventually the same thing.
\nNext up comes the repeat by the Basque Patxi Usobiaga grading it about 9a + and in \u00a0July 2007 by Dave Graham. Few days ago the performance of 15 years old\u00a0Enzo Oddo from Nice.
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\nPerhaps Jean-Christophe Lafaille would be justly proud., about the desire and appreciation of his work on the stone of Ceuse
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\nKairn\u00a0published the toughts of \u00a0Chris Sharma about \u00a0the controversy of the name:\u00a0
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\nI named the route "Realization" because the first part "Biographie" ended in the middle and I wanted to differentiate the two parts. Then there was some frustration from the French that I changed the name. So upon speaking with some French friends, I understood the history of the line and the tradition in France that the bolter names it, and I told them "that’s fine with me to call it Biographie".
\nMost of the time now like in slideshows etc, I actually call the route Biographie. I guess the whole thing was a bit confusing due to the middle anchor and not wanting to discredit the first pitch, or have the name be exactly the same as the first part.
\nFor me personally, people can call it whatever they want. Naming things is just for fun. The perfection of the route speaks for itself. That piece of rock was there long long before us, so to get worked up about naming it is kinda ridiculous.
\nSource:\u00a0Kairn
\nVideo: Sylvain Millet on Biographie realization by\u00a0Fred Ripert; Patxi Usobiaga on Biographie filmed by\u00a0I\u00f1aki Marco\u00a0and Miguel Catita<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
\u00a0 In France, and generally in Europe, are those who bolt the routes to give the name, so it was for Biographie in Ceuse in the early 90s, by…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8066],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-47614","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-boulder"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n