{"id":47728,"date":"2010-04-06T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2010-04-06T00:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/falesia\/news-falesia-2\/gabri-moroni\/"},"modified":"2010-04-06T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2010-04-06T00:00:00","slug":"gabri-moroni","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/boulder\/news-boulder\/gabri-moroni\/","title":{"rendered":"Gabri Moroni"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nWhy did you choose this route?&#013;<br \/>\nThis summer I spent a lot of time in Ceuse and to rest from the path occasionally I went to Entraygues which is about an hour far from Ceuse. Since I had there already climbed the other 9a\u2019s route, I had to try this one&#013;<br \/>\n&#013;<br \/>\n&#013;<br \/>\nAt the start there is a hard block, after it&#8217;s less difficult?&#013;<br \/>\nAbsolutely not. The route is practically a very hard boulder of 8a or 8a+ with a dyno and a swing\u00a0 really extreme. I don\u2019t think that \u00a0lot of people can do it, unless you&#8217;re good at that kind of climb&#013;<br \/>\nAfter the boulder there is a good rest and then from here last moves are very intense &#8211; \u00a0about 8b &#8211;\u00a0where it is very easy to fall because each step is uncertain.&#013;<br \/>\n&#013;<br \/>\n&#013;<br \/>\nIt took more effort than Sankukai?&#013;<br \/>\nIt &#8216;a different route than\u00a0Sankukai. Cond\u00e9 de Choc has much more extreme moves and the problem for me was to hold\u00a0 the long swing. Sankukai is more climbable and continue. Single moves are\u2019nt very hard, but it&#8217;s hard to link everything together.\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n&#013;<br \/>\n&#013;<br \/>\nYour route in Gressoney &#8211; Elements of disorder &#8211; has committed less physical level?&#013;<br \/>\nDefinitely yes, about the physical level, but he need \u00a0more or less the same time &#8230; maybe even a little more. EdD is a fingers route, more technical and I do&#8217;nt\u00a0 think it \u2018s much easier than Cond\u00e9 de choc.&#013;<br \/>\n&#013;<br \/>\n&#013;<br \/>\nYou prefer the extreme routes on granite &#8211; gneiss or those on limestone?&#013;<br \/>\nI just love everything but not chipped.&#013;<br \/>\n&#013;<br \/>\nI know you really like Ceuse, where you have recently sent L\u2019 Arcademicien 8c, you have not tried Biographie?&#013;<br \/>\nBiographie I \u00a0think it is too hard for me \u00a0for the moment. It &#8216;a route on which you must have a high level of resistance, but at the same time a very high power. Maybe next year I&#8217;ll start a bit\u00a0on this route.&#013;<br \/>\n&#013;<br \/>\nYou are also very strong on boulder, you need \u00a0on extreme routes where there are more selective boulder moves?&#013;<br \/>\nOf course. Having a high level of force is always important \u00a0to the extreme routes.&#013;<br \/>\n&#013;<br \/>\nProjects?&#013;<br \/>\nLot of and all around the world.\u00a0\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br 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\/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n&amp;nb&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nGabri Moroni\u00a0has done the second ascent of &quot;Cond&amp;eacute<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\u00a0&#013; \u00a0\u00a0\u00a0&#013; \u00a0&#013; Why did you choose this route?&#013; This summer I spent a lot of time in Ceuse and to rest from the path occasionally I went to Entraygues&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8066],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-47728","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-boulder"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is 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