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\nIn July last year, the Swiss climber Matthias Trottmann with Thomas Scheuner had opened "Piccola Spada" an impressive route on the central pillar of the north face of Titlis (3238m), in ‘Engelberg\u201d in Switzerland.
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\nThis year Trottmann returned to the same wall, which is quite fascinated by, and managed to free his route " Piz dal Nas\u201d 500 meters and 12 pitches with difficulties of \u00a08b, and probably \u2013 according to Matthias \u2013 one of the \u00a0most difficult on a North wall in the Swiss Alps.
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\n"On 26 August, gave the forecast \u00a0sunny and 30 degrees on the plains" Matthias told " So Martin Jaggi and I took\u00a0the opportunity, started from Zurich and arriving at the foot of the wall we had the nice surprise to find it \u00a0completely dry.
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\nAlready at the first few meters I had this incredible feeling of lightness. – writes in his report – "We went trought the first easy pitches, then there was an hard one that I leaded, \u00a0then in two hours we were at the bivouac.
\nThe morning after, the difficult pitch \u00a0I called "Good Morning" was perfect, the next one "The shark\u201d, which still I had not got free, was a real war of nerves.
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\nI did the redpoint on the 3rd try and when, an hour later I had the tip of the "nose" in my hands, standing on the large sunny terrace, I could not believe it, my biggest \u00a0project was made!
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\nThanks to Matthias Koenig,\u00a0Daniel Schultz, Thomas Scheuner,\u00a0Thomas Koenig,\u00a0Dominik Seiz\u00a0 e Pascal Siegrist
\nThe evening came a cold front and the wall were soon \u00a0covered with snow .. "
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\nMatthias Rottmann already bagged the free ascent of Silbergeier (8b, 7c, 8a, 7a, 8b \/ b, 7c) in the R\u00e4tikon on 2009, Hotel Supramonte in Sardinia and, in addition to the Piccola Spada on \u00a0Titlis in 2009 the FA of "6.4 Sekunden" (8b) in 2006 in Engelberg in Switzerland.
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\nSource: UpClimbing
\nPhotos: Klaus Kranebitter
\nhere other photos
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