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\nOn 2010, Oct\u00a08 th,\u00a0Daniele Nardi, Giovanni Pagnoncelli and Ferdinando Rollando have established a new route on J\u00e4gerhorn\u00a0NW wall (3970 m)\u00a0–\u00a0Monte Rosa group.
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\nThe route called Direttissima is\u00a0950 m, 20 pitches, 60\u00b0 on snow, 70\/80\u00b0 and some sections\u00a0\u00a090\u00b0 on ice, several mixed climb pitches \u00a0up to M5\u00a0 (5c on rock), TD+. One piton left.
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\nHere some details by Ferdinando Rollando :" J\u00e4gerhorn Direttissima follows the obvious couloir\u00a0 from the top of the Piccolo Fillar Glacier. It is the only logical way of ascent of the NE wall , the main wall of the J\u00e4gerhorn, bordered by the ridge of J\u00e4gerrucken (E), climbed in 1867 \u00a0and the NE ridge climbed in 1965.
\nStart from the Piccolo Fillar Glacier and cross in the middle of the wall with three large iced sections (spaced with steep snowfields). The last part, less steep, was done \u00a0on \u00a0mixed climbed on \u00a0inconsistent snow, Exit between the two peaks and for the last 100 m it took place on J\u00e4gerrucken.The team used 9 ice screws, pitons, cams and nuts, \u00a0on rock hard to protect."
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\nOn top of the mountain, at the end of the ascent, one of the members of the team experienced a problem of frostbite in his feet, so the better solution appeared to call for the rescue helicopter.
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\nSource and photos : Giovanni Pagnoncelli
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\nUPDATE
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\nConnected to the last line of the report of Pagnoncelli, to be noted the opinion and \u00a0details given by\u00a0Claudio Schranz, a Macugnaga\u2019s \u00a0Mountain Guide and a great expert of the Monte Rosa. Schranz recalled, for those who did not know it, his first ascent of \u00a0the same channel – in 1977 with Marco Roncaglione, which was followed a week later, by the first ski descent.
\nThe news was at the time published in the local press and magazines.
\nLikely \u00a0the line followed by the team Rollando\/Nardi\/Pagnoncelli differs \u00a0in some sections \u00a0from the one of Schranz\/Roncaglione, also because it doesn\u2019t seem that Schranz \u00a0rappelled during descent, abseiling, while the route of \u00a0Rollando\/Nardi \/Pagnoncelli shows vertical sections of rock and ice.
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\u00a0 On 2010, Oct\u00a08 th,\u00a0Daniele Nardi, Giovanni Pagnoncelli and Ferdinando Rollando have established a new route on J\u00e4gerhorn\u00a0NW wall (3970 m)\u00a0–\u00a0Monte Rosa group. \u00a0 The route called Direttissima is\u00a0950 m,…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8066],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-48028","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-boulder"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n