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\nOn 23th January 2011, Tito Traversa (9 years) managed\u00a0\u00a0"Je est un autre" a hard route in the French cliff\u00a0of \u00a0Castillon, sector Traduction, graded 8b\/8b +.
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\nThis is an outstanding result, considering the difficulty of the route, age, and the \u00a0"reduced" height of \u00a0the young climber.\u00a0
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\nThe progression of Tito seems unrestrainable: on 2010 March 29th \u00a0the first 8a, Faith in Donnas, at the beginning of August a couple of 7b + onsight in Arco, then\u00a0in the same place\u00a0\u00a0two more 7b +\u2019s on sight and a 7c + 2nd go.\u00a0
\n\u00a0In August 2010 \u00a0the\u00a0important on sight of Arachnide\u00a0and Le plasir qui demonte\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0both 7c\u2019s \u00a0in the Gorges du Tarn \u00a0and \u00a0Makach walou 7c + on-sight on \u00a0the selective C\u00e9\u00fcse.
\n\u00a0Finally, on 2010 \u00a0September 29th, his 1st 8a+: Il dominio di s\u00e8in Champorcher in Aosta Valley\u00a0and the 2nd on November 11, Sarre 2000 at Sarre roof.
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\nInterview with Tito by Mario Sertori
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\nHere is the story of the ascent of Je est un autre by the voice of the protagonist.
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\n"Je est un autre"
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\nAfter having climbed "Sarre 2000" at the Tetto di Sarre, I would have liked to have done something else there, but, unfortunately, it was winter. The Christmas holidays were here, I wanted to go to Spain but didn\u2019t have very long.
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\nEnzo Oddo had mentioned to me this route at Castillon, and I went to try it. The route was a bit damp but the big reaches seemed OK, and I decided to make a serious attempt at it. We came back at the end of the year, but the lower part of the route with the tufas was wet and the forecast wasn\u2019t great.
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\nWe decided to stick around for 3 days, but the sun never came out and the route stayed wet. We came back on January 6th and it was still wet. Then the 7th and 8th it rained again, and on the 9th it was wet through. I didn\u2019t even manage to get the quickdraws off: we left them on the route.
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\nWe came back again the weekend of 22-23 January. The route was finally dry, and I felt in good shape. After the usual warmup and one lap on the route, I was ready to try for the RP: I managed to climb the first hard part of the upper section of the route, where the route traverses right again, but I brushed against the wall as I dynoed before the clip, and fell. I had another go, but with no better results.
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\nThe next day, there was the first round of qualification for the Italian Championships, and I should have been leaving, but I decided to stay at Castillon to climb the route. I didn\u2019t want to risk to come back after another two weeks and find it wet all over again.
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\nSunday, after the warmup, on my first go I fell at the same place as before. On the second go, I managed to stick the dyno with two fingers and said to myself, \u201ccome on… only two more bolts…" (UP: the hard section) and so I got to the last two hard reaches and clipped the chain! I saw smiling and yelling from the mix of joy, excitement and tiredness. On the ground they were shouting as well, and when I got down we all celebrated together.
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\nTito<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
\u00a0 On 23th January 2011, Tito Traversa (9 years) managed\u00a0\u00a0"Je est un autre" a hard route in the French cliff\u00a0of \u00a0Castillon, sector Traduction, graded 8b\/8b +. \u00a0 This…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8066],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-48582","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-boulder"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n