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\nSince two saisons the web is rocked by controversy relating to the manner in which climber David Lama from Austria try to free-climbing the Maestri route (VI 5.10 A2, 900m, Alimonta-Angeli- Baldessarri-Claus-Maestri, 1970) on the SE\u00a0ridge of Cerro Torre.
\nLast year his team had added a few dozen bolts in some places, causing the resentful reaction of the mountaineering world.\u00a0
\nOne of\u00a0the latest news published on the site pataclimb.com\u00a0\u00a0by the famous mountaineer Rolando Garibotti climbing, is the ascent of the same Cerro Torre’ SE ridge by the team\u00a0of the\u00a0Canadian Chris Geisler and Jason Kruk: the two, in recent days, came a whisker away from success, without using a single bolt of Maestri for progression, up to about 40 meters from the end of the Headwall, after which there is only the ice mushroom. Failed to complete their challenge, but it’s a great result in every case.\u00a0
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\nBefore of the Canadians, \u00a0in 1999 Ermanno Salvaterra and Mauro Mabboni were thinking about this important goal, \u00a0by opening a variant of the compressor route
\nBut it was in 2007 that there is a big step forward, with Americans Zach Smith and Josh Wharton, who climb the Salvaterra \/ Mabboni, then inaugurate a new itinerary \u00a0that lends itself well to be free climbed and which differs \u00a0a lot from Maestri route.
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\nThe two arrive up to the top of the first pitch \u00a0of the Headwall and 4 from the end, without using even a bolt \u00a0of the compressor route; they reached the top of the route, but began clipping bolts in the final four pitches due to weather complications.
\nFor the record, Smith and Wharton had proposed to reduce the bolts on Maestri line, generating very strong contrasts in the community of climbers.
\nread more : Pataclimb<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
\u00a0 Since two saisons the web is rocked by controversy relating to the manner in which climber David Lama from Austria try to free-climbing the Maestri route (VI 5.10 A2,…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8066],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-48704","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-boulder"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n