Another great\u00a0 ascent by the Belgian specialists Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva: the duo\u00a0they managed the 2nd ascent and the onsight on the upper two-thirds of one of the most impressive route of Fitz Roy: El Corazon.\u00a0
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\nOpened in February 1992 by the unforgettable Swiss Kaspar Ochsner and the Czech (naturalized Swiss) Michael Pitelka \u2013 both great explorers of the limestone massifs of the Bernese Alps – , the route is named after a characteristic\u00a0 rock shaped like a heart, at the top.
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\nIt ‘s long 1250 meters – 40 pitches – and the difficulty of 6c and A4. Before the Swiss , the itinerary had been attempted, among others, by a team composed of Janez Skok, Ines Bozic, Glantar Zlate with the italian Ivo Kafol that in 1987 "besieged" the mountain for two months.
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\nFavresse and Villanueva started around 7 am on East Pillar in order to avoid the pitches of the lower section that was wet, then – following an evidente snow ledge to the right –\u00a0have come to El Corazon.
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\nOn the route have found a lot of gear including a bundle of fixed ropes left by their predecessors; \u00a0climbing no stop and both free,, reached the top at 11AM of the next day, overcoming difficulties up to 7b
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\nThey rappelled down on Royal Flush (7b and A1 Kurt Albert, Bernd Arnold, J\u00f6rg Gerschel and Lutz Richter 1995).\u00a0
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\nSean Villanueva and Cintia Percivati, from\u00a0Argentina have also managed the complete the first free ascent of Golden Eagle, on Aguja Desmochada, grading \u00a0the crux \u00a05.12b.
\nSource:\u00a0pataclimb.com<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Another great\u00a0 ascent by the Belgian specialists Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva: the duo\u00a0they managed the 2nd ascent and the onsight on the upper two-thirds of one of the most…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8066],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-48754","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-boulder"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n