{"id":49672,"date":"2011-08-05T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2011-08-05T00:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/falesia\/news-falesia-2\/home-on-the-range-8b-trad-in-wyoming\/"},"modified":"2011-08-05T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2011-08-05T00:00:00","slug":"home-on-the-range-8b-trad-in-wyoming","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/boulder\/news-boulder\/home-on-the-range-8b-trad-in-wyoming\/","title":{"rendered":"Home on the range 8b+ trad in Wyoming"},"content":{"rendered":"

\u00a0
\nCanadian crack climbing specialist Jean-Pierre Ouellet (Pee Wee)\u00a0\u00a0has managed\u00a0 the 2nd \u00a0ascent Home On the Range in Vedauwoo\u00a0– Wyoming (US9.
\nThis 17m \u00a0overhanging finger crack\u00a0 (with a crux of 7C boulder)\u00a0 was\u00a0first free ascended\u00a0in 2009 by Justin Edl.
\n\u00a0
\n
\n"HTR is only 50 feet long," – writes Pee Wee on his blog – "this little bastard is very hard. It is slightly overhanging and it aggressively leans right at a 45 degrees angle. And it is as flared as the Vedauwoo cracks gets\u2026 For this kind of crack I use a weird slopper-hand-finger jam combo\u2026 It works really well until your foot slips or you grease out of the crack\u2026 It\u2019s an interesting crack skill to develop but it can be frustrating, as it doesn\u2019t take much to just slip out of the crack\u2026
\n\u00a0
\nThis thing is really weather dependant (for me anyway). You need a good breeze to make the flary\/sloppy\/fingery jams hold. On some humid days the crux was simply impossible for me and I would get really frustrated, but on windy days I would do really well on the route and make good progress fast. Since it leans a lot it is almost impossible to jam both feet. I ended up using the good old combo for that kind of cracks: Super-Mocc on the left foot for jamming and Anasazi Verde on the right for edging. After a week hiatus to go work at a trade show, I ended up sending the route. It took me about 20 tries over 2 weeks.\u201d
\n\u00a0
\n\u00a0
\nSource: ukc
\n\u00a0
\nPh: Andrew Burr
\n\u00a0<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u00a0 Canadian crack climbing specialist Jean-Pierre Ouellet (Pee Wee)\u00a0\u00a0has managed\u00a0 the 2nd \u00a0ascent Home On the Range in Vedauwoo\u00a0– Wyoming (US9. This 17m \u00a0overhanging finger crack\u00a0 (with a crux of…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8066],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-49672","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-boulder"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nHome on the range 8b+ trad in Wyoming - Up-Climbing<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/bouldering\/news-bouldering\/home-on-the-range-8b-trad-in-wyoming\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Home on the range 8b+ trad in Wyoming - Up-Climbing\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"\u00a0 Canadian crack climbing specialist Jean-Pierre Ouellet (Pee Wee)\u00a0\u00a0has managed\u00a0 the 2nd \u00a0ascent Home On the Range in Vedauwoo\u00a0– Wyoming (US9. 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