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\nOn 1st\u00a0and 2nd August 2011, Andrea Marzorati, Antonio Gomba and\u00a0Corrado Trezzi have opened Sogni d\u2019alta quota (Dreams at high altitude) a new route on the northwest wall of Piz Badile (Masino Bregaglia – Group, Central Alps).
\nThe route, equipped with bolts, starts\u00a0approximately 30 meters to the right of Ringo Star, and runs always\u00a0at a safe distance, on dihedrals,\u00a0slabs and walls to the top of the mountain. Crampons and\u00a0ice axes\u00a0to reach the start, 14 quickdraws, 60m ropes and a complete set of friends.
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\nThe route is 820m long (18 pitches) with maximum difficulty 6b+\u00a0(obl. 6a). Descent\u00a0rappelling on the route (one rappel out of the route) or from the North Ridge or from the Normal route on the South wall.
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\nStarting point is the refuge Sass Foura (1904m) in Val Bondasca (Switzerland). The team Marzorati – Gomba has been very busy in recent years in the Masino \/ Bregaglia inventing several lines, often in remote and uncrowded corners
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\nFor all the info on other climbs: SOLO GRANITO\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0
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\nHIGH ALTITUDE DREAMS
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\nAfter climbing many new routes on various faces of the Central Alps, it was our dream to make a new route on an important wall. During a ski-moountaineering day in Val Bondasca the idea just popped up: \u201dPizzo Badile, why not?!\u201d. The approach, as usual for us, was \u201clong\u201d, and we already knew the mountain, having climbed it several times by different routes. Our choice fell on the NW face, between Ringo Star and the Bramani.
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\nAfter a reccy in June last year, climbing some pitches in July 2010 and an injury which held us up for a year, finally this year we realized out high altitude dream.
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\nWe set out the evening of 31 July, as usual with heavy sacks, towards the Sass Fur\u00e0 refuge where we spent the night. In the morning, an early wake-up and we set off for the Trubinasca glacier, where we crossed the wide crevasses and bergshrunds on fragile ice bridges. From the base of the face, we climbed the pitches we\u2019d already reccied very slowly in the cold and with the wet rock.
\nTowards one o\u2019clock the sun warmed us and showed the immense NW face in all its beauty, making us really want to cliimb it.
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\nAfter several hours of climbing corners, cracks and slabs, we realised that night was approaching (it was 21:30), and we were lost in this sea of granite. We had already planned to bivvy, and the three of us squeezed onto a ledge 2 m long and 40 cm wide: lovely!!!
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\nDuring the night, with rain, wind and the odd flurry of snow, we asked ourselves how our heroes 70 years ago managed in similar circumstances, without the modern gear that we have.The night was long, but we maintained our enthusiasm for reaching the summit, and in the morning, with a clear sky and freezing temperatures, we emerged onto the North arete, a few steps from the summit at 9 am.
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\nWe were overjoyed, shaking each others\u2019 hands and giving each other pats on the back, and getting a Polish team to take our photos. We calmly and prudently abbed back down the arete, knowing that tiredness sometimes leads to errors.
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\nAfter a few days, when we\u2019d recovered from our efforts, our achievement began to sink in and we drank with our lifelong friends to the fine adventure!
\n\u00a0Andrea, Antonio, Corrado
\n\u00a0<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
On 1st\u00a0and 2nd August 2011, Andrea Marzorati, Antonio Gomba and\u00a0Corrado Trezzi have opened Sogni d\u2019alta quota (Dreams at high altitude) a new route on the northwest wall of…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8066],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-49864","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-boulder"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n