{"id":49916,"date":"2011-09-21T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2011-09-21T00:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/ghiaccio-misto\/news-ghiaccio-misto-2\/zauberberg-400-m-8a-liberata-dai-riegler-brothers\/"},"modified":"2011-09-21T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2011-09-21T00:00:00","slug":"zauberberg-400-m-8a-liberata-dai-riegler-brothers","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/boulder\/news-boulder\/zauberberg-400-m-8a-liberata-dai-riegler-brothers\/","title":{"rendered":"Zauberberg (400 m 8a) freed by Riegler brothers"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>In June 2011 the brothers Florian and Martin Riegler have freed \u00a0&quot;Zauberberg&quot; (Magic Mountain) the 400 meters route (15 pitches, 7-\/A2) opened in May 2009 by alpine guides Stefan Comploi and Ivo Rabanser on the north wall of the Ciastel Chedul in Vallunga. &#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nFlorian was a couple of time \u201cto have a look\u201d to the wall \u00a0with Angelika Rainer, wondering if it was possible to climb free \u00a0the horizontal roof of 10 meters. &quot;Once I had forgotten my climbing shoes and I tried a pitch and a half in sneakers, but then I rappelled , and I&#8217;d had enough of the Magic Mountain!&quot; &#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nTwo years later, Florian was again back to the route partnered by his brother Martin, &quot;the rock of the first pitch is fragile, the second is very demanding \u00a0and finally with some thrills we got to the roof.&quot; The redpoint has been postponed to the next day. The crux was alarmingly wet and big drops were falling \u00a0from the roof: at this point \u00a0Martin had the brilliant idea \u00a0to dry the holds with gas stove and that was the winning tip! &#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nOnce done \u00a0the crux, the rest of the climb took place in speed , considering the clouds gathering over their heads &#013;<br \/>\n&#013;<br \/>\nThese are the difficulty: 7 +, 8 + 9 \/ 10 -, 8 -, 6, 6, 7 -, 6, 6 -, 5, 7 -, 6, 6, 8 +, 4 +\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nSource: site Riegler\u00a0 \u00a0Bergsteigen &#013;<br \/>\nPhoto: www.mmarts.at&#013;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>In June 2011 the brothers Florian and Martin Riegler have freed \u00a0&quot;Zauberberg&quot; (Magic Mountain) the 400 meters route (15 pitches, 7-\/A2) opened in May 2009 by alpine guides Stefan Comploi&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8066],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-49916","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-boulder"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.5 - 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