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\nThe Roi de Siam is a striking sentry made of good coloured granite which holds up the shoulder of the higher and more famous Petit Capucin. We\u2019re talking about a wild world of skywards-reaching pinnacles which surround Mont Blanc du Tacul, mushrooms of flame-coloured rock which poke up out of the glacial undergrowth infested with crevasses of all shapes and sizes.
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\nOf the routes on the south face, the Lifting du Roi is undoubtedly the most popular, and offers pleasant climbing on sharp granite with steady and contained difficulties, max 5c, well-equipped stances and the odd bolt along the pitches.
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\nThe route finishes with a fine airy pitch on the \u201chat\u201d of the Roi, the narrow point of this satelite of the Tacul. From here you have a stunning view of the dead-vertical Grand Capucin, of the Petit Capucin and of the slender summit flake of the Pic Adolphe Rey.
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\nThe route is sheltered from the wind and in sun from sunrise onwards for most of the day. Thanks to the route\u2019s favourable orientation, you can climb Lifting from spring until well into autumn. You can easily leave Courmayeur with one of the first t\u00e9l\u00e9pheriques to Punta Helbronner, make the climb, and come back in the afternoon the same way.
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\nThe Lifting du Roi was created by Massimo Datrino and Marco Sperone in summer 2001. Obviously, the SW face also has other modern routes, harder than Lifting, but whose difficulties are less well-distributed.
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\nRoi de Siam 3693m
\nLifting du Roi
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\nLength: 300m (9 pitches)
\nDifficolty: 5c obligatory
\nAbseil back down the route
\nMaterial: axe, crampons and pegs for the ice, Friends up to BD 3, nuts and slings.
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\nApproach: Courmayeur \u2013 Punta Helbronner (3462m) \u2013 decent from the Col Flambeaux passing under the Tour Ronde and towards the Combe Maudit, then turn nord as for the Grand Capucin and then right (east) to reach the south-east face of the Roi de Siam. (1-1:15 hours)
\nStart: on the right near a crack with an athletic move to start (peg).
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\nPitch 1: crack – 20m – 5c. You can also start 10 metres further right \u00a0and then come back to the first stance (depending on ice conditions)
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\nPitch 2: straight up the crack then traverse right to pass a roof and then back left. Extend protections to avoid rope drag on this windy pitch. – 35m – 5a – 3 bolts.
\nPitch 3: straight then slightly right to exit onto a ledge. – 35m – 5c – 3 bolts
\nPitch 4: – discontinuous slab 4c – 30m.
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\nPitch 5: nice slab then traverse a gully to belay immediately afterwards 2 bolts.
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\nPitch 6: very fine corner crack with exit left. – 5a – 35m..
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\nPitch 7: slightly leftwards to climb a narrow chimney (bolts non visible at the start of the chimney behind a spike) 5a- 4c – 35m. Belay at the foot of the splendid final slab.
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\nPitch 8: short \u201cS\u201d pitch to bring you to the base of the final tower – 15m – 4b. It can be avoided by running together pitches 7 and 8 and not using the 8th stance, keeping to the right.
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\nPitch 9: first on a lovely flake then slightly right then straight on in-places lichenous rock (some pegs) until reaching stance 9. The abseil point is a few metres to the left, on the south face – 20m – 5c
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\nDans quel sens
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\nThis\u00a0summer, Alpine Guides Massimo Datrino and Gionata Landi – both based in Courmayeur – established a new route on South East Wall of Roi de Siam,\u00a0just right of\u00a0Lifting du Roi\u00a0.
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\nThe route (9 pitches) is \u00a0250m\u00a0long and\u00a0all bolted, included belays.\u00a0
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\nDescent: rappelling the route
\nVery good rock quality, \u00a0except\u00a0on the 7th pitch
\n\u00a06a\/A1 – 5c obl
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\nDans quel sens
\nMassimo Datrino\u00a0and \u00a0Gionata Landi 2011
\n250m
\n6a A1 \u2013 5c obbl.
\nDescent: rappel on the route
\nStart from the extreme right of the wall, see picture.\u00a0
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\nSource:\u00a0up-climbing.com
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