\n
\n
\n
\nBeto Pinto Toledo, UIAGM Mountain Guide of Peru with Rolando Morales Evangelista aspiring Mountain Guide have opened, last october, a new route on a virgin Peak named Tunsho South 5560m in the Central Range.
\nName of the route:\u00a0 \u201cCHINITA\u201d
\nDifficulty: TD+, 60, 70, 80, 90\u00ba ice and rock
\nEquipment, 2 rope of 60m, rock gear, 3 ice screws, 10 snow screws
\n
\nTUNSHO SOUTH 5560 MASL
\n
\nLast year when I was in The Central Range\u00a0 I climbed to the summit of Norma Mountain and from there I saw the peak of Tunsho over a really interesting wall of rock and ice.\u00a0 I got curious and, on my return to Huaraz, I set about investigating its history in books and on the net.\u00a0
\nAs it turned out no-one had ever climbed the peak before.\u00a0 One Peruvian expedition had previously reached the northern summit, via the west face and another expediton of the DAV was intended to try for the north ridge ,.\u00a0 But unfortunately an accident on the north ridge prevented them from reaching their goal.\u00a0
\n
\n\u00a0Having established that this was a virgin peak,, my interest grew and I decided to investigate a possible approach.\u00a0 With that in mind I traveled to Huancayo with my friend Rolando last October 14th.\u00a0 There we met with some friends who helped us gather more information.\u00a0 I was also helped by the Park Director Marco\u00a0 Arenas who put me in touch with\u00a0 Gonzalo Quiroz, the director of the Reserva Paisajistica nort\u00a0 Yauyos Cochas, who kindly provided transport to azul cocha 4400m.\u00a0
\nOn the 16th we took the four hour drive and made camp by the lake (4700m).\u00a0 On day two we took some equipment to the glacier and checked our route, deciding upon the canalet on the half of the wall.\u00a0 On the 18th we got up just after midnight and were on are way to the glacier by 1 am.\u00a0
\nAfter 45 minutes we were at the glacier and kitted up to walk over it towards the wall, passing several crevasses and areas of loose snow on the way.\u00a0 We reached the wall after about two hours and began our climb using some of the rock gear.\u00a0
\nThe first section was difficult and took over an hour because there was a fresh snow roof followed by 90\u00ba of snow frost with some rock climbing.\u00a0 Unfortunately the bud type rock wasn\u2019t good for making protection.\u00a0 Thankfully, the condition of the snow improved higher up, with some areas of blue ice and we progressed relatively rapidly over this mid-section.\u00a0
\nThe last two pitches were difficult again though thanks to an abundance of loose snow at 80-90 \u00ba and we lost a lot of time on the final section.\u00a0 We reached the summit at about 9 am and, having caught our breath and taken in the view, rappelled via the south ridge.\u00a0 We did 3 rappels down to the col and from there tried to head for the other summit.\u00a0 But unfortunately the weather conditions deteriorated and after climbing about a hundred meters we decided to turn back.\u00a0
\nWe headed back down to the col and continued our rappel, returning via the route we\u2019d used earlier that morning.\u00a0 By the time we got back to our camp at 3 pm the weather was perfect and we had some stunning views.\u00a0 The next day we walked down to Azul Cocha where we got a car back to Huancayo happy after a successful trip and a new route.
\nBeto Pinto Toledo<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Beto Pinto Toledo, UIAGM Mountain Guide of Peru with Rolando Morales Evangelista aspiring Mountain Guide have opened, last october, a new route on a virgin Peak…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8066],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-50258","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-boulder"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n