\u00a0
\nThe Val di Fassa, in the heart of the Trento Dolomites, offers lovers of front-pointing a huge range of climbing on routes that are now classics. New, very interesting lines have been created in the last few seasons, and the Alpine Guide Tommaso Cardelli gives us all the relevant information.
\nWhile we wait for the cold to arrive, here are details of the latest mixed and ice climbs from the last few years in the Val di Fassa…. In addition to routes such as Fontanazzo, Rio Pelous, Cassiopeo… already known and appreciated, new mixed routes have been climbed. These are more difficult than the classic waterfalls mentioned above, and offer even the most expert climbers plenty of challenges in placing their tools!! There are simply loads of opportunities in our valleys …
\nIt\u2019s important to say that information on who made the first ascents of frozen waterfalls is hard to come by, and so some \u201cfirst ascents\u201d may actually be repetitions!!!
\nDuring the winter I\u2019ll keep you updated on the conditions of the frozen waterfalls….
\nEnjoy yourselves!
\nFor more info: www.tommasocardelli.blogspot.com
\nTommaso Cardelli, A. Guida Alpina
\nThanks to: SCARPA, NORTHLAND SHOP, PEAK PERFORMANCE for the equipment supplied.
\nTupac Amaru – Carpe Diem: WI 5\/M6 120 m. 3 pitches
\nTrentino Alto-Adige, Dolomites-Val di Fassa, Col Pelous.
\nTommaso Cardelli and Cristian Dallapozza 10\/4\/2010
\nApproach: park near to the\u00a0foot of the \u201cCol Rodella\u201d at Campitello di Fassa; \u00a0walk along the cross-country skiing track towards Fontanazzo and after 10 minutes\u2019 walking climb up a gully on the left until you reach the foot of the waterfall, 30 mins from the car\u00a0(identify which is the right gully from the stada statale!).
\nEquipment: ice screws, including some short ones, micro Friends + 0,75 BD. Bolts on mixed sections.
\nDiscent: abseil, bolted anchors
\nFaces: North
\nAfter a first easy pitch on an easy-angled slab, the waterfall rises vertically with a succession of delicate mixed sections and good sections on vertical, well-featured ice. In the first mixed section there are one bolt and one peg, in the second two bolts. Very nice and good fun!
\nN.B.\u00a0We have out recently that the \u201cCarpe Diem\u201d waterfall had been climbed by Giorgio Carlotti and friends, entirely on ice and without leaving any gear behind! The original name of the waterfall is \u201cTupac Amaru\u201d and it had been graded WI 5\u00b0; the first ascensionists have agreed to the bolts being left at the stances and in the mixed sections.
\nFluido Giallo: WI 5\/ M6 150 m \u00a03 pitches
\nTrentino Alto-Adige, Dolomites-Val di Fassa, Col Pelous.
\nFA Mauro Mabboni and Andrea Dorigatti in winter 2010.
\nApproach: as for the classic \u201cRio Pelous\u201d.
\nEquipment: normal ice climbing gear. Mixed section bolted.
\nDescent: abseil off the tree to the left of the waterfall then bolted anchors
\nFaces: North
\nClimb the first pitch of the \u201cRio Pelous\u201d waterfall until the stance in the gully; from here, follow the slender frozen waterfall on the left of the gully for two pitches. The first pitch is entirely on ice; the second starts with a bolt-protected mixed section to then finish up a good runnel. Very fine line that can be combined with the classic Rio Pelous.
\nVecioti e Zovenoti : WI 5 80 m 2 pitches
\nTrentino Alto-Adige, Dolomites-Val di Fassa, Col Pelous
\nFA Cristian Dallapozza, Luca Gasparini and Icio Davarda 13\/12\/2010
\nAttacco: park at the \u201cCercena\u201d locality at Canazei and head towards Campitello along the XC skiing track. After 5 minutes\u2019 walk, from along the \u201cpercorso vita\u201d climb the evident gully on the left to the waterfall. 20 mins in total. (The frozen waterfall is obvious from the strada statale just before the \u201cCaminetto\u201d hotel coming from Campitello)
\nEquipment: normal ice climbing gear.
\nDescent: abseil off the tree to the left of the waterfall
\nFaces: North
\nTwo very enjoyable and varied pitches; candlesticks and vertical ice in the first part with good moves to follow the easiest line; the second pitch is less steep but the ice is thinner and more delicate…
\nAgghiacciante: WI 6\/M8 120 m 3 pitches
\n\u00a0Trentino Alto-Adige, Dolomites-Val di Fassa, Col Pelous
\nFA Mario Prinoth
\nApproach: park at the lower station of the cablecar for the Col Rodella and proceed along the XC skiing track, towards Canazei. After 5 minutes\u2019 walking climb the gully on the right and in 30 minutes you reach the foot of the waterfall.
\nEquipment: normal ice climbing gear, some small Friends useful; the mixed sections have bolts for protection.
\nDescent: abseil, bolted anchors
\nFaces: North
\nLovely line which climbs the right branch of the waterfall with delicate mixed sections and hard ice sections.
\nLa bizzarra: WI 6+\/M 8+ 140m 4 pitches
\nTrentino Alto-Adige, Dolomites-Val di Fassa, Col Pelous
\nFA Mauro Mabboni, Oskar Bertarelli, Alessandro Lucchi (Alpine Guides course 2011)
\nApproach: as for the last route
\nEquipment: normal ice climbing gear; series of stoppers and Friends up to n\u00b0 1 BD
\nDescent: abseil, bolted anchors
\nFaces: North
\nThe most recent route in the valley, very fine climbing requiring a cool head since for much of the route you need to place protection… Difficult ice and delicate mixed climbing!
\nP1: 40 m WI 6\/ M6 (trad)
\nP2: 45 m WI 6\/6+ (1 bolt)
\nP3: 30 m WI 3+\/4
\nP4: 40 m WI 5+\/ M7+ (2 bolts)
\nVernel Gully: WI 4\/ M\/ R\/II 300m 7 pitches
\nTrentino Alto-Adige, Dolomites-Val di Fassa, Marmolada-Vernal
\nFA Tommaso Cardelli and Cristian Dallapozza 15\/12\/2010
\nAttacco: park at the start of the road which leads to the \u201cSevis\u201d quarry at Pian Trevisan (Passo Fedaia) and head for the fore-structure under the Gran Vernel aiming straight for the obvious deidre on the right side of the face where the runnel is located. 25 minutes.
\nEquipment: short ice screws, nuts, Friends n\u00b0 0,75-1-2-3 BD
\nDescent: abseil off trees in the upper sections then on Abalakovs
\nFaces: North
\nA runnel in a lovely, quiet setting which seems more like a classic couloir in the western Alps than a Dolomitic waterfall! Succession of vertical ice, small patches of snow and mixed sections; placing protection is sometimes not easy, with very thin ice at times and you need to place rock protections.
\nSenza Nome: WI 4+\/M 150m \u00a03 pitches
\nTrentino Alto-Adige, Dolomites-Val di Fassa, Col Pelous
\nFA unknown!
\nApproach: park at the lower station of the cablecar for the Col Rodella and proceed along the XC skiing track, towards Fontanazzo. After 5 minutes\u2019 walking climb a gully on the left and in 20 minutes from the car you reach the foot of the waterfall.\u00a0(Identify the correct gully from the strada statale!).
\nEquipment: normal ice climbing gear and Friend BD n\u00b0 0,5-0,75-1
\nDescent: abseil off trees and Abalakovs
\nFaces: North
\nThis waterfall is to the right of the classic \u201cRio Pelous\u201d and has a first pitch in a chimney-gully with a wedged tree trunk then two good pitches on featured ice. It\u2019s obvious from the road which leads from the centre of Campitello to the cable car parking place.
\n\u00a0
\n\u00a0
\n\u00a0
\n\u00a0
\n\u00a0
\n\u00a0
\n\u00a0<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
\u00a0 The Val di Fassa, in the heart of the Trento Dolomites, offers lovers of front-pointing a huge range of climbing on routes that are now classics. New, very interesting…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8066],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-50606","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-boulder"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n