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\nEven if the season is not really suited to deep water soloing, for those who are tired of seeing reports of frozen waterfalls, we propose this interesting article by Rachele Sighinolfi, a strong climber, in love with psicobloc.
\nRachele wrote this special report to explain the irresistible attraction of climbing on the cliffs of Mallorca, and the difference between climbing suspended above the calm and reassuring sea of \u200b\u200bthe bays and above the open sea, where the \u00a0waves \u00a0beat incessantly creating a great rushing and the fear of falling into, takes you at the stomach
\nMallorca, sublime Deep Water Soloing
\nText: Rachele Sighinolfi
\nPictures: Rachele Sighinolfi, Fabio Lasagni
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\nWhen you set out for Mallorca not knowing exactly what Deep Water Soloing involves (as they say, you don\u2019t know until you try something), you imagine your body in the turquoise water, the hot sand between your toes, people in swimsuits and the salt on your suntanned skin. Then you start to ask yourself questions: will the rock be greasy? Will I be climbing with my skin all wrinkly and trashed? My wet shoes, will they grip? Do I have to hold my nose when I fall in? But above all: will I be able to fall in elegantly, or will my body get bruised all over by the impact with the sea?
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\nMaybe you go to Mallorca after having seen the video of Klem Loskot and Tim Emmet with \u201cPsicobloc\u201d written across it, a term (it means \u201cScary Bouldering\u201d) which tries to hide itself in the furthest corner of your brain as you are packing for the trip. Well, in this video Loskot says: \u201cYou don\u2019t realise how high you are, but when you fall it\u2019s a shock how long you\u2019re falling for, you\u2019re in the air for ages and you\u2019re still falling, falling, then \u2026 splash. And every time you\u2019re surprised how soft the water is\u201d. A few seconds later, Loskot dynos for two far-away holes in the limestone, 12 m up, and falls… When the video finishes you\u2019re enthralled, amazed and scared of that drop. Ok, you say, but he\u2019s Loskot.
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\nThen you arrive in Mallorca, put on your shoes and even before you leave the canoe or the little dingy, the exposure you feel as if you were already 10 m up. You flick through the guide with barely-hidden preoccupation, looking for the shortest and easiest routes, you resign yourself to traversing and every time you try to climb upwards, your legs start shaking uncontrollably. There\u2019s even a moment when you tell yourself this is the wrong holiday for you, and it\u2019s not that brief… Here the struggle that\u2019s at the heart of climbing makes itself felt: between your fears and your tenacity.
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\nIn Mallorca, this struggle is epic: the coastline is splendid, the rock, with its intense colours, and all shades from red to yellow, from grey-blue to black, plunges into the sea. The features make you dream of a physical, robust dance, with enormous holes, crimps, slopers, and pockets from big buckets to two-finger holes\u2026and the sea is scary.
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\nThe cliffs rise out of the sea: those in the coves are more reassuring, with their clear blue swimming-pool floor, but the cliffs over the open sea, very high, take your breath away, not just for their beauty. The roar of the sea with the waves crashing, the white foam on the boiling blue water, the fear of falling awkwardly\u2026the stereotype of the relaxing seaside holiday soon disappears. If you thought or hoped that this would be a \u201cplayful\u201d activity (by the sea, in the sun,…), similar to bouldering (lots of people talk about the sea as if it\u2019s a bouldering mat\u2026), you\u2019re in for a \u201ccold bath\u201d; the most ruthless mountaineering mindset is more appropriate.
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\nYou understand which it\u2019s called "psico", \u201cscary\u201d and "solo". \u00a0A poet may define what you feel as \u201csublime\u201d or \u201cenjoyable horror\u201d, i.e. a mix of terror and attraction, of the exposure beneath your feet and your desire to conquer it, of not giving up. DWS makes you angry: it\u2019s repulsive and attractive at the same time. One moment ecstasy, the next, defeat. The more you want to run away, the more it attracts you, and you\u2019re there fiddling with your shoes in your trembling hands. Off you go.
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\nYou can\u2019t retreat or ask for Tight. You can only keep climbing, relaxed, or fall. Splash. Relaxed, because you can\u2019t have worries to hold you back, your arms are already tired enough. And when, after a few splashdowns (you\u2019re bound to fall when you try routes at your limit), you start to climb relaxed, well, then you understand that you haven\u2019t made a mistake with this holiday, or that you\u2019re in fact discovering something you hadn\u2019t expected: you\u2019re climbing in its freest form. It\u2019s just you, no ropes, quickdraws or useless thoughts. You just have to concentrate and climb. Stop.
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\nThe feeling of fear doesn\u2019t ever completely disappear. Your victory is in tackling it in a jokey and calm way, often pretending to be calmer than you are. Ballet dancers make a supreme effort to dance on the tips of their toes and manage to smile\u2026what are you complaining about, then? Then, you feel you\u2019re finally gaining confidence, that your clumsy movements become smoother, even if the shakes can still get the better of you as you\u2019re topping out, but at this point you fight as though the sea below was filled with open-mouthed white sharks. You climb the routes in a heroic dance under the gaze of the other participants who yell encouragement, as if there was no tomorrow.
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\nYou climb and get the better of your fears. You learn to accept falling in, you relax and fall naturally: your arms windmill to keep your balance (or maybe you\u2019re trying to fly upwards), and as straight as an arrow you punch into the water to bob up straight away. When, then, you manage it, when the sequence of movements is continuous and every fibre of your body is concentrated on the climb, when, after having tried with real conviction, you find yourself on a piece of rock that no longer scares you, you take a deep breath and then you\u2019re filled with a priceless feeling of pride, heroism and success.
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\nYou\u2019ve overcome that climb and from your podium you can enjoy the supportive applause of those who never took their eyes off you. Some people, once they reach the top, jump in, a final act of defiance. But always feigning calmness. You can never deny the sea is stronger than you. This is what\u2019s sublime about DWS.
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\n\u00a0Hints:
\n–\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 You must have the guide Mallorca: Sport Climbing and Deep Water Soloing by Alan James and Mark Glaister. It describes not only routes and grades but contains (especially important) a risk rating, estimated from the depth of the water, the presence of rocks and the height of the crux;
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\n–\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 A good place to start which is not too intimidating is Cala Varques, a protected little bay, with blue sea. Very popular and enjoyable. Some people even rig up a slackline above the sea, and perform crazy stunts;
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\n–\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 In summer as well you can find cliffs that remain cool, where you can get out you rope, harness and quickdraws;
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\n–\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 You climb with wet shoes and the holds, as soon as the sun and wind touch them, dry out completely; the best time of year is the second half of September onwards;
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\n–\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0\u00a0 Unfortunately Mallorca has been the victim of very aggressive tourism deevlopment which often hasn\u2019t respected the natural environment; there are places ruined by buildings built right next to the sea, but the island remains splendid and unspoiled hidden beaches are still to be found.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
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