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\nOn Jan. 27, the German climber Ines Papert partnered by the Austrian Lisi Steurer managed the ascent of Illuminati M11 + \/WI 6 +, the icefall opened by Albert Leichtfried in Vallunga (Val Gardena), thus the probable third repeat and first female ascente.
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\nPapert had tried Illuminati for three times already, with Leichtfried in 2006, with Astner in 2009 and Angelika Reiner in 2010, sending the section of dry, but finding the section of ice \u00a0not in favorable conditions.
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\nAs she writes on her blog, was alerted for acceptable conditions by the Catores\u2019 Mountain Guide Hubert Moroder and once in action \u00a0found the crux free-standing rather thin and delicate, so much so that she could not put screws for several meters.
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\nIlluminati was repeated in 2008 by Florian Riegler and by the party of the Slovenian Klemen Premrl and the Italian Erik Svab. In 2010, Spanish\u00a0Luis Penin failed to complete the section of ice in reason of the poor condition of the same.
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\nSource:\u00a0\u00a0websiteof Ines Papert
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\nIlluminati
\nA.Leichtfried and D.Tavener 2006
\nDifficulty: IV \/ 6 + \/ M11 +
\nLength: 165m
\nExposure: SE
\nAltitude: 2000m
\nApproach: 1 hour
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\nReport of the openers
\n1. pitch.: M 11 -. 30m, 12m overhang. Endurance, crux step towards the end of the pitch
\n2. pitch: M 11 +. 25m, 10m overhang. Severe, difficult \u00a0mixed climbing
\n3. roll: pitchM 8 -. 30m, 3m overhanging. Over the curtain of ice
\n4. pitch: WI 4. 30m, vertical in part. Perfect ice, easy progression
\n5. pitch: WI 6 +. 50m, vertical. Pillar with ice of poor quality
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\nAccess: The icefall is clearly visible from the path at the top of the valley following the valley of Yosemite Ice Fall. Reach the hump that hides the first part of the icefall
\nDescent: 3 equipped rappels on the right edge (see photo)
\nReport by Albert Leichtfried from Alpine Ice<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
\u00a0 On Jan. 27, the German climber Ines Papert partnered by the Austrian Lisi Steurer managed the ascent of Illuminati M11 + \/WI 6 +, the icefall opened by Albert…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8066],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-50854","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-boulder"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n