Saturday, February 18, Pietro Biasini, belayed by Stephanie Frigi\u00e8re managed the first ascent of a great mixed pitch in Val di Mello. This is the start on rock of the big \u00a0Mastro d\u2019Ascia free standing climbed for the first time by Mario Sertori in February 2010.
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\nBiasini has not used spits but he managed to place some friend and pitons. The result was a pitch of 55 meters, very powerful \u00a0that climbs \u00a0the overhanging and severe wall of the cave. Even the ice gave a lot to do to Pietro, in reason of \u00a0poor protection. So a good fight to get to the belay,two solid fix placed by the opener of the free-standing.
\nHe suggested the difficulty of M9\/WI6. Biasini \u00a0is an active climber who has\u00a0repeated many difficult routes and opened numerous icefalls.
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\nRecently, with the Swiss Luca Godenzi repeated Albert Leichfried’s \u00a0Felsige Gaerten WI 7 – and M8 in Austria. Pietro lives in Val Masino, in the village of \u00a0Pioda, municipality of Ardenno.
\nHere is report:
\nHere is his report:\u00a0
\n"… The pitch is really nice, starts 5\/6 meters right of the pedestal for dihedrals and small cracks and then moving to the left under a first roof. Then\u00a0there is a rest and another small crack under a second roof. At the end of this crack, you get to the ice, which is very difficult at the start, then passes between the candle and the rock and climb the pillar and you get out to the other side and continue to the belay …. The ice was very complex and the protections until 5\/6 meters below the belay were very dubious ….. I did not use bolts.
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\nFor the section of mixed, bring \u00a0friends up to # 3 Black Diamonds and some micro friends. For the second small crack of the ice micro nut offset DMM or a few pitons. On the left we have \u00a0left 5 pitons in the mixed section where it was difficult to use fast protections. I had already tried the pitch last Sunday with Daniele Bianchi and Luca Turchi.
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\nToday I went back to Stephanie Frigi\u00e8re and made the redpoint, suggesting a difficulty II\/6\/M9 55meters. The grades are also to be confirmed because I do not have a great familiarity with the mixed climb. I suggested WI6 for the ice for the precariousness of the protections. From my face you can see that fight I did with that pitch! ….<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Saturday, February 18, Pietro Biasini, belayed by Stephanie Frigi\u00e8re managed the first ascent of a great mixed pitch in Val di Mello. This is the start on rock of the…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8066],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-50958","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-boulder"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n