{"id":51090,"date":"2012-03-06T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2012-03-06T00:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/ghiaccio-misto\/news-ghiaccio-misto-2\/lama-e-ortner-loska-stena-fa\/"},"modified":"2012-03-06T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2012-03-06T00:00:00","slug":"lama-e-ortner-loska-stena-fa","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/boulder\/news-boulder\/lama-e-ortner-loska-stena-fa\/","title":{"rendered":"Lama and Ortner New Route on Loska Stena"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nDavid Lama was not long without plunging into another adventure, after the incredible first full free ascent of Compressor Route\u00a0on Cerro Torre .&#013;<br \/>\nNext was a new route on Lo\u0161ka Stena North Wall on Group of Mangart, partnered \u2013 as in Cerro Torre &#8211; by Peter Ortner .&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nThis is the wall that overlooks the village of Log Pod Mangartom in Slovenia near the Italian border. Higher than 1 km and wide 7, this wall is particularly severe in winter with ice and features sections alternating with hard rock.&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nThere are many \u00a0lines opened on it by very strong Slovenian climbers over the years. Lama and Ortner started on February 25 along the first 400m untied and six pitches more challenging with the rope and then bivouacked on a ledge.&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nThe next day, with intense cold , the duo continued encountering many difficulties, especially in\u00a0placing protections\u00a0and\u00a0even the belays were not good, (they not used spit) but they had no choice but to continue, as \u00a0the retreat was almost impossible after the first 600 meters.&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nThey placed the second camp on a ledge even smaller than the previous day , and at noon, 27 Febr \u00a0were finally on top. These are the difficulties of their itinerary: 1300m 7 &#8211; M6 Alpine style.&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nMore infos and photos: blog\u00a0 David Lama&#013;<br \/>\n\u00a0&#013;<br \/>\nLama reports that the route requires a certain engagement, due to the difficulty in protections and recommended for a repeat to carry \u00a0a good assortment of pitons<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>\u00a0&#013; David Lama was not long without plunging into another adventure, after the incredible first full free ascent of Compressor Route\u00a0on Cerro Torre .&#013; Next was a new route on&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8066],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-51090","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-boulder"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.5 - 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