Julian Lines added a new finish to Dave McLoeod\u2019s project Hold Fast (E9, 7a) at While Rock, Glen Nevis,The route is called Hold Fast, Hold True (E9\/E10). He spent a lot of time working it top-rope and finally climbed it free solo.
\nMcLeod make the first ascent in 2002. At 5 meters there\u2019s a crux and then, after 15 meters of sustained climbing, the line moves left into Run for Home, \u00a0E5.
\nIn 2006, Dave Birkett repeated the route, falling down at the crux for a hold that broke; he then used a smaller one. Immediately attracted by a direct finish, Julian \u00a0cleaned the new line finding a small but essential hold.
\n\u201c I wasn’t sure if it would be doable but worked the moves and found it was still OK.\u201d
\nJulian spent a lot of time in Glen Nevis working the route on top-rope but didn\u2019t have enough self confidence for solo ascent. Last year, he interrupted the attempts for an injury and when he returned, didn\u2019t find optimal conditions to climb.
\nFree solo remained the only way to climb this new route; to limit potential injuries in case of fall, Julian flattened the base and covered the rocks.
\n\u201c Instead of looking down to see a jumble of boulders I would look down to see moss, hopefully helping me to remain calm.\u201d
\nA month ago, Jiulian nailed the first free solo ascent . The grade should be around 8a\/8a+; the upper section is easier than the other one, but you can get jaded.
\nJulian is not sponsored by any one; he climbs for passion and recently published the book Tears of Down, documenting thirty years of climbing.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
Julian Lines added a new finish to Dave McLoeod\u2019s project Hold Fast (E9, 7a) at While Rock, Glen Nevis,The route is called Hold Fast, Hold True (E9\/E10). He spent a…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8066],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-54030","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-boulder"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n