"Monte Monaco\u2019s northern wall, reddish\u00a0and overhanging is carved out by slightly\u00a0overhanging oblique cracks, interrupted by\u00a0curved caves streaked with bird droppings
\nin a few sections. The solitary sparrow lives\u00a0here, with the wild pigeon, the kestrel and\u00a0the peregrine falcon, in peaceful harmony\u00a0with the climbers who climb the routes\u00a0described in this guide. When there is no\u00a0wind, it is possible to here the hum of the\u00a0planes taking off at Punta Raisi airport: a\u00a0vague and distant rumble which at first\u00a0seems menacing but then our rational mind\u00a0easily accepts it, without remembering that\u00a0the first sensation is the one that counts and\u00a0the threat is real.
\n\u00a0
\nOn S.Vito\u2019s Sballo we almost had to bivvy:\u00a0we woke up late, soaking wet after an\u00a0extremely damp night with a warm scirocco\u00a0wind. Our nomadic party, five in a van,\u00a0had camped out in the garden of a villa\u00a0under construction and only after a long\u00a0time were we ready to climb the pillar. On\u00a0Pizzo Monaco, the ropes didn\u2019t want to be\u00a0recovered. I climbed up the rope using a\u00a0prusik knot, fixed the abseil point, abseiled\u00a0down but it was useless. Marco Bonamini\u00a0climbed up successfully and managed to\u00a0recover the ropes, which did not budge due\u00a0to the rope drag of an unusual rock."
\n\u00a0
\nVisible from the centre of San Vito this long\u00a0ochre coloured wall, carved out by long cracks,\u00a0deep chimneys and bold overhangs attracts the\u00a0attention of those who love heights. The first\u00a0route which appeared on this wall: Il Bugiardo\u00a0comes after 10 years from the first routes\u00a0opened on the sunnier east spur. The climbers\u00a0from Palermo Roby Manfr\u00e8 and Davide Ruvolo,\u00a0opened Il Buguardo in 1993 in the middle of the\u00a0face along an evident and logical crack-chimney,\u00a0rigorously opened trad (for this reason it was\u00a0not included in this guide which only deals\u00a0with modern and sport routes) with difficulties\u00a0up to VI. Many years will pass before its first\u00a0repetition and many more will pass before this\u00a0face will see new and exciting itineraries running\u00a0up it, this time in modern key, opened with the\u00a0systematic use of the bolt. A number of factors\u00a0attract climbers who want to open new routes\u00a0or bolt them. The face is always in the shade,\u00a0its height makes it possible to enjoy sufficiently\u00a0long routes but not too long, alternating cracks,\u00a0chimneys, compact slabs with athletic overhangs\u00a0expressing various climbing styles. Delimited to\u00a0the right of the Pizzo Monaco spire from which it\u00a0is divided by a carved out section, the wall ends\u00a0on the extreme left with a vaguely triangular\u00a0shaped and characteristic sector CATTEDRALE\u00a0NEL DESERTO, which as well as the many single\u00a0pitch routes, it offers some of the best multi pitch\u00a0routes of medium difficulty. Thanks to the easy\u00a0access and the availability of free spaces on the\u00a0wall it is not difficult to see that there will be\u00a0new lines in the future, we recommend you do\u00a0not go near the old trad routes present which\u00a0we have just mentioned, so as not to incur into\u00a0unintentional overlapping which would create\u00a0many controversies.
\n\u00a0
\nThe routes of Monte Monaco North Side
\n
\n1.\u00a0L\u2019ORACOLO DEL SUD\u00a07a (6b+ obbl.) \/RS2\/II
\nR. Capucciati and C. Cerretti, 2011-2012
\n
\nBetween1 and 2\u00a0TRA VENTO E VERTIGINE\u00a07b (6c obbl) RS2\/II
\nR. Capucciati and G. Tagliabue, 2012
\n
\n2\u00a0FIORI STRAPPATI\u00a07a (6b+ obbl.) \/RS3\/II
\nC. Simoni and F. Testa, 2011
\n3\u00a0PARE SIANO TRENTINI\u00a06c (6c obbl.) \/RS3\/II
\nM. Brunet and M. Canteri, 2011
\n
\n4\u00a0WALKING ON THE MOON\u00a06c (6b obbl.) \/R2\/II
\nM. Monaco and T. Tamagnini, \u00a02010
\n
\n5\u00a0IL VOLO DI PEGASUS\u00a07a (6c obbl.) \/RS4\/II
\nA. Leichtfried and R. Ranner, 2010
\n6\u00a0LA LINGUA PURA\u00a07c (6c obbl.) \/RS3\/II
\nA. Leichtfried and P. Mair, 2009
\nFrom first pitch You Cannoli Die Once begins
\n
\n7\u00a0BLOW IT UP ON THE INTERNET\u00a07b+ (6c obbl.) \/RS3\/II
\nK. Kalous and J. Thesenga, 2011
\n8\u00a0LA COLLINA DEI CONIGLI\u00a06b+ (6a+ obbl.) \/RS2\/I
\nM. Giglio and I. Iemmi, 2007
\nSicily guides
\nDI ROCCIA DI SOLE, climbing in Sicily
\nMassimo Cappuccio, Giuseppe Gallo
\nENG or DEU, 2012
\n456 pag
\nEd. Versante Sud
\nSAN VITO LO CAPO, climbing map 850 routes\u00a0
\nMassimo Cappuccio, Giuseppe Gallo, Daniele Arena
\nITA\/ENG\/DEU, 2014
\nEd. Versante Sud
\n\u00a0
\n
\n\u00a0
\n\u00a0<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
"Monte Monaco\u2019s northern wall, reddish\u00a0and overhanging is carved out by slightly\u00a0overhanging oblique cracks, interrupted by\u00a0curved caves streaked with bird droppings in a few sections. The solitary sparrow lives\u00a0here, with the…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8066],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-56346","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-news-boulder"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\n