From boulder competitions to 9a routes, determinated and metodichal in his training, whit only one thought in mind, to improve. During the first call, Stefan was very kind and reserved but certain also. Only few words but evident of his character and it\u2019s not possible to be different if you want to compete in Boulder World Cup, doing 9a and 8c boulder. So, after Bio-Logiko ascent, his first 9a whit rope, we interviewed Scarperi to better understand his way to live climbing and life.
\nBegin whit you: who are you? When did you start to climb and why?
\nHallo, I\u2019m Stefan Scarperi, 23 years old. I started to climb 12 years ago at school and this was a really fortune for me cause this was an incredible chance for me to discover this sport. So, after first lessons at school, I went to a climbing gym for a course and when I was 14 the comps arrived. Also this aspect was a sort of flash and from there all occurred.
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\nDid you do other sports before And now? What\u2019s your work?
\nYes, I like cycling. It\u2019s a sort of second passion and when I have not to work or go climbing, I enjoy whit a long tour around my home and I work at Salewa Cube climbing gym in Bolzano. I like very much working in a gym to create new routes cause in this way I can express my creativeness and fantasy. I di this in Appiano\u2019s gym too, when I train\u2026when I don\u2019t climb for funny, I climb for work!
\nBio-Logiko: a finish or a start?
\nHmm\u2026I think a start of course cause I want to resolve other hard routes and boulders. For me Bio-Logiko was a confirm of my last years hard works, all sacrifices and difficulties and to climb a 9a route was a big\/little dream that becomes true. During last 3 years, I trained myself intensely for World Cup to obtain good results and to climb Bio-Logiko was the\u00a0
\nWhy Bio-Logiko?
\nI don\u2019t know exactly why I decided to try this route. A lot of friend said to go to Narango so I organized a trip whit Severino Scassa that knows very well that crags. I liked very much Bio-Logiko, perfect for my style. There is a particular and problematic boulder in the second half, very hard for me, so I used a new and particular solution. I spent five days in total for this route bolted by Loris Manzana and opened by Adam Ondra in 2012. This is the perfect test-route for a climber, infact also people like Gabriele Moroni, Silvio Reffo and Stefano Ghisolfi tried it in the past.
\nGrade apart, was this the most important route for you or there are others in your heart?
\nBio-Logiko is my favourite route at the moment of course. It was a great challenge for me but also the result of many years of training. A great mental fight, where I have to be able to remain concentrated for all the route. A similar sensation was for me on Arcademicien, 8c in C\u00e9\u00fcse, one of my favorite place to spend holiday.
\nClimbing outdoor and competitions: what\u2019s the common aspects?
\nFor me there aren\u2019t a lot of similarities. During comp you have a predetermined time to resolve the problems but in outdoor climbing you can return the next days if your attempts don\u2019t bring the desired results. There is more relax. An analogue aspect is probably training. Both for a great route or a problem, you must train a lot to reach your goal.
\nYour idols?
\nNo one in particular. I try to do my best and stop.
\nWhere will climbing lead you? Projects and places to visit?
\nI don\u2019t know now; I live every year and then decide for the future. I hope to go on in World Cup for many years and to travel a lot of course but I have much work for the moment cause my training and in my gym. This winter I have to return to Cresciano. I have a debt whit Dreamtime again\u2026
\nStefan thanks Salews and WildClimb for the support
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\nInterview by Stefano Michelin
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