The Austrian champion Angele Eiter has recently visited Leonido in Greece that is becoming, month after month, a point of reference for all climbers. Along with Bernie Ruech, she has equipped some routes and she has tried to climb but the snowy weather stopped their activities. Nevertheless, they managed to equipped new routes and she also made A Pig in the Roof, a new 8b in Twin Cave. Here some considerations about the area.
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\nBOLT AND CLIMB IN LEONIDO
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\nby Angela Eiter
\nMy boyfriend and I want to establish a new crag in Leonidio. Highly motivates we start to bolt some route, but suddendly a coldness arrives and covers us with snow and ice. Anyway, we don’t give up, shovel away the snow from the path and bolt some routes in the icy coldness day by day.
\nDue to the coldness it is not possible to climb in this new crag. Therefore, we change to the Twin Caves to climb there for the last two sunny days. Bernie and I got inspired by one remarkable tufa. On our very last day, Bernie starts to bolt this line as a variation to the already existing route that passes to the right. As I don’t want to return home to Imst without this line, a stressful battle follows. The climbing is tough and painful, because of the hard moves on this rough tufa. So I have to use tactics during my check out and for my attempts. However, one time a broken foothold and the other time a wet hold stops my good attempt. The cold night arrives, my energies decrease and my skin burns like fire. Nevertheless, I continue for a last go and that climbing reminds an exciting film with a doubtful ending.
\nAfter three weeks without much sun, it is like a present to clip the anchor of this new first ascent, A\u00a0pig in the roof, 8b\u00a0in the bright sunset. Thanks for this amazing line, Bernie!
\nThe small town Leonidio is due to its location at the coast an ideal destination for a seaside vacation. But surely not from November till February, where climbers find the best conditions on the contrary. That’s why like-minded person of different nations come together in this period and gather themselves in the town and at the crags.\u00a0Leonidio possesses a huge potential of rock, which varies from bad to good quality, as the rock is sometimes quite fragile and thus breaks. For the moment, some routes are still unfinished and the anker doesn’t always comply with the UIAA standard which oblige two bolts at the top that are connected with a chain.\u00a0For these reasons, I recommend climbers and especially the belayers to take care.Anyway, I explored an adventurous journey with many fresh and untouched routes! I climbed fantastic lines in Limeri, Maison de Chevres, Twin Caves and in Elona. I can’t remember a climbing trip where I\u2019ve ever had so many possibilities to climb different untouched routes. On my first day in Leonidio I repeated proved routes like Tufandago, 8a+ and Orion, 8b in the Twin Caves, which I did immediately. After that, I became very interested in trying some open projects. Firstly, I focused on Morchi in Twin Caves and successfully freed it, for which I suggest the grade 8b+. Inspired about that challenge I also set free OAKA I.C., 8a in Limeri.
\nHowever, the most impressive open project I did is Gaidoura Doura! This route goes straight up on some tufas passing a remarkable nose in the middle. Never in my life I had so much fun while searching for the way to climb. A real untouched and therefore dirty tufa.
\nAmazing, I tell you! The first ascent of this route belongs really to my most emotional climbing highlights!
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\nInfo about Leonido
\nwww.climbing-leonido.com
\nwww.climbgreece.com
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