It will be definitely one of the most interesting ascent of the year, not just for the grade because it arouses admiration and curiosity: a boy of 17 years that is measured with a historical route. In May, the seventeen year old Borna \u010cuji\u0107 has climbed Il Maratoneta, mythical 8b+ by the king Manolo, who since 1987 has only seen a few ascents. CAMP met him for a interview about this adventure.
\nWhy and when did you decide to attempt this route?
\nWhen I still was a kid this route intrigued me because I had no idea how could it be climbed\u2026it seemed too hard. Then, when I got in range of climbing that grade, I tried it once and I saw it’s possible, so I said I will send it one day.
\nHow many days and attempts did you need to send Il maratoneta?
\nI needed around 25 attempts over one year and half.
\nIl maratoneta is "only" 8b+ but has only 6 ascents. Which are the reasons in your opinion? And what does the grade mean for a route like this?
\nThe route was graded almost 30 years ago so the grade is pretty old school, just like the route. If I compare it to other newer routes, it could probably be harder. I think that’s one of the reasons it’s not climbed so much, and other reasons would definitely be that it’s really sharp and it seeks unique style of climbing.
\nHow did you feel when you sent the route? Attempting it, did you ever believe to reach your goal? Or in some moments did you think to abandon?
\nWhen I sent it I was really happy to accomplish that goal, but at the same time I could say I was a bit sad because I really liked going there and trying it J . After working on it, when I managed to do all the moves separately, I always believed I can send it. I didn’t really have moments when I wanted to abandon it in long term, but sharpness of rock sometimes made me take a break until fingers regenerate.
\nDo you consider Il Maratoneta the most important and challenging success in your climbing life to now?
\nAlong with 8c Strelovod in Mi\u0161ja Pe\u010d, yes.
\nCould you describe the route?
\nIt’s located alone at the back side of fallen rock, so it really feels like a queen among the routes. Whole route is pretty sharp, it’s impossible do to more than 4 tries per day. Route is 15 meters long with mostly long moves on small crimps and with not so much footholds, so it needs to be climbed precisely. From start to around 2 meters before the end, there is no rest and all moves are around same difficulty making it really intense. Last 2 meters are really easy and they make a nice end after hard fight.
\nHave you ever met Manolo? What do you think about him after getting Il Maratoneta?
\nI have never met him, but from the stories I’ve heard I can imagine he is a legend.
\nAnd now, what are your future projects?
\nAt the moment I have no particular route in mind, but I\u2019m thinking about some 8c+ to push up my grade limit. I want to do the same for bouldering as well.
\nThe last question: what does climbing mean for you?
\nIt\u2019s a life style!.
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