{"id":87946,"date":"2019-01-18T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2019-01-18T00:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/boulder\/news-boulder-2\/no-kapote-only-per-charles-albert%3a-il-secondo-9a-boulder-al-mondo\/"},"modified":"2019-01-18T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2019-01-18T00:00:00","slug":"no-kapote-only-per-charles-albert%3a-il-secondo-9a-boulder-al-mondo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/boulder\/news-boulder\/no-kapote-only-per-charles-albert%3a-il-secondo-9a-boulder-al-mondo\/","title":{"rendered":"No Kapote Only for Charles Albert: the second 9a boulder in the world!!!"},"content":{"rendered":"<h5 style=\"text-align: justify\">From his website, the magazine Grimper announces that Charles Albert has sent in Fontainebleau the second 9a boulder in the world, as always barefoot &#8230;<\/h5>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">An extraordinary news that is a bolt from the blue! <strong>The second world 9A boulder<\/strong>!<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">We don&#8217;t know too much about <strong>No Kapote Only<\/strong>, the last line that <strong>Charles Albert<\/strong> has climbed in <strong>Bleau<\/strong> and for which he proposed the 9A, the second boulder of this grade in the world after<strong> Burden of Dreams<\/strong> of Hukkataival. All the details and an exclusive interview will be in the next number of the<a href=\"https:\/\/www.grimper.com\/news-le-grimper-194-kiosque-histoire-deuxieme-proposition-9a-bloc-planete-decouvrir-exclu\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\"> French magazine Grimper.<\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">A few more details appear on <a href=\"http:\/\/fanatic-climbing.com\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">fanatic-climbing.com.<\/a><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">No Kapote Only is a line of about ten movements that runs on a marked overhang located in the sector of<strong> Rocher Br&ucirc;l&eacute;<\/strong> on the boulder of La Roche &agrave; Claude. Lots of controversy followed the cleaning of this boulder: in 2011, the openers has in fact destroyed an ancient nineteenth-century shelter to be able to climb on this rock. Moreover, in 2017, the boulder was painted by spray and some holds were hammered&#8230;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Charles Albert describes it this way:<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><em>&ldquo;No Kapote only&rdquo; is a sitstart. It starts in the 8B located on the left-hand side of the boulder, climbing a crack. You have 3 traverse moves around 8A+ followed by 2 extremely hard moves before reaching the underclings that are the stand start of &ldquo;Gaia&rdquo; 7C. You need to take a crimp with left hand to go to a good right hold, before doing a foot-hand match and a dyno in a far two-finger pocket again with the right hand. Then you need to cross in the underclings of the stand start of &ldquo;Gaia&rdquo; and finish on it. Except for the 2 extreme moves, the holds have been hammered but it&rsquo;s not too uncomfortable to climb.&rdquo;<\/em><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">The video above shows also some past attempts by Charles on this line (at aboutl 6 minutes and half).<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">After some first ascents of 8C, after <strong>&#8220;La r&eacute;volutionnaire<\/strong>&#8221; and <strong>&#8220;Hypoth&egrave;se assis<\/strong>&#8221; proposed as 8C +, No Kapote Only is the natural &#8220;next step&#8221; for Albert.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Of course, there is always the unknown linked to his emblematic style: in fact, Charles sent all these lines barefoot and, given this particularity, all the extreme blocks he has opened have a high level of subjectivity, both in climbing and in the proposed grade.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Less pleasant is the fact that the boulder on which he climbed No Kapote Only is a negative symbol of the ethical degeneration of boulder: holds hammered, painted rock and, above all, ruins of historical and cultural importance destroyed by the first openers just to have another boulder to climb among&nbsp; the thousands and thousands of Bleau. Despite the very high level and boulder vision, the charisma and this extraordinary ascent by Charles, these unpleasant details bring this line a bit far from the purity and essentiality that is found for Burden of Dreams &#8230;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">To learn more about it we just have to buy the latest number of Grimper, where we can find an exclusive interview with Charles.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">news: Grimper.com \/ fanatic-climbing.com<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>From his website, the magazine Grimper announces that Charles Albert has sent in Fontainebleau the second 9a boulder in the world, as always barefoot &#8230; &nbsp; An extraordinary news that&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":87948,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"video","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8066],"tags":[8735,7992,14600],"class_list":["post-87946","post","type-post","status-publish","format-video","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-news-boulder","tag-charles-albert","tag-fontainebleau","tag-no-kapote-only","post_format-post-format-video"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>No Kapote Only for Charles Albert: the second 9a boulder in the world!!! 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