{"id":89468,"date":"2019-03-10T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2019-03-10T00:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/boulder\/news-boulder-2\/ryohei-kameyama-e-il-terzo-climber-da-9a-boulder-con-la-prima-ripetizione-di-no-kpote-only\/"},"modified":"2019-03-10T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2019-03-10T00:00:00","slug":"ryohei-kameyama-e-il-terzo-climber-da-9a-boulder-con-la-prima-ripetizione-di-no-kpote-only","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/boulder\/news-boulder\/ryohei-kameyama-e-il-terzo-climber-da-9a-boulder-con-la-prima-ripetizione-di-no-kpote-only\/","title":{"rendered":"Ryohei Kameyama is the third climber of an 9a boulde with the first repeat of No Kpote Only!"},"content":{"rendered":"<h5 style=\"text-align: justify\">Two incredible ascents in Fontainebleau<\/h5>\n<h5 style=\"text-align: justify\">&nbsp;<\/h5>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><strong>Fontainebleau<\/strong> is once again a witness of the great level of <strong>Ryohei Kameyama<\/strong>! In 2017 this silent Japanese impressed with <a href=\"..\/..\/..\/it\/boulder\/news\/34141\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">the quick ascents of the 8C of The Big Island and Jour de Chasse<\/a> but this time he went even further!<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Only 4 sessions to gain the first repetition of <strong>No Kpote Only<\/strong> by <strong>Charles Albert<\/strong>, the second line in the world proposed as a possible 9a and the first to be repeated!<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">On the French site fanatic-climbing.com Ryohei explains that he climbed this extreme line with a new method, using a heel-hook and an intermediate hold not considered by Charles Albert who, as usual, climbed the boulder barefoot.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Kameyama is also one of the few to have tried the 9a of <strong>Burden of Dreams<\/strong> and declares that the line by Hukkataival is in his opinion harder, proposing a downgrade to 8C+\/9a for Albert&rsquo;s line. A proposal however open to the opinion of Ryohei, who claims not to have tried so many hard lines to have a more complete comparison.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">Again in Bleau we witness another great exploit, still on a well-known boulder: the 8C\/8C+ of<strong> Le Pieds a Coulisse<\/strong> by <strong>Guillaume Glairon Mondet.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">From <a href=\"https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/p\/BuyLi8eHs_O\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">his instagram page<\/a>, <strong>Nicolas Januel<\/strong> announces the repetition, the third after that of Jimmy Webb and Charles Albert. A climb characterized by an incredible determination behind it, since Nicolas took over 16 years to send it, as he reports:<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\"><em>&ldquo;Yesterday I tried to remember exactly when I climbed this line for the first time. I think it was in 2003 during a session with my friend Yohan Dard. If I had known that I would put 16 years to succeed&#8230;But the D day was yesterday. After 16 years, 40 sessions, 200 attempts, hundreds hours to find the best sequences&#8230;.I did it!!!!! I would have liked to realize the FA but I was not strong enough a few years ago when we shared a lot of time working the line with Guillaume Glairon Mondet. But it does not matter anymore, I did one of those problem that I never thought I could do 10 years ago. And I think it&#8217;s the best feeling of my climber&rsquo;s life. Time to turn my eyes to the next one and let this magical part behind me.&rdquo;<\/em><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: justify\">News: 8a.nu\/fanatic-climbing.com\/instagram<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Two incredible ascents in Fontainebleau &nbsp; Fontainebleau is once again a witness of the great level of Ryohei Kameyama! In 2017 this silent Japanese impressed with the quick ascents of&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":89470,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8066],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-89468","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-news-boulder"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Ryohei Kameyama is the third climber of an 9a boulde with the first repeat of No Kpote Only! - Up-Climbing<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/bouldering\/news-bouldering\/ryohei-kameyama-e-il-terzo-climber-da-9a-boulder-con-la-prima-ripetizione-di-no-kpote-only\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Ryohei Kameyama is the third climber of an 9a boulde with the first repeat of No Kpote Only! - Up-Climbing\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Two incredible ascents in Fontainebleau &nbsp; Fontainebleau is once again a witness of the great level of Ryohei Kameyama! In 2017 this silent Japanese impressed with the quick ascents of...\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/bouldering\/news-bouldering\/ryohei-kameyama-e-il-terzo-climber-da-9a-boulder-con-la-prima-ripetizione-di-no-kpote-only\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Up-Climbing\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"http:\/\/www.facebook.com\/upclimbing\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2019-03-10T00:00:00+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/no_kapote_kameyama.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"701\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"392\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"ricky\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"ricky\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"2 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/en\\\/bouldering\\\/news-bouldering\\\/ryohei-kameyama-e-il-terzo-climber-da-9a-boulder-con-la-prima-ripetizione-di-no-kpote-only\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/en\\\/bouldering\\\/news-bouldering\\\/ryohei-kameyama-e-il-terzo-climber-da-9a-boulder-con-la-prima-ripetizione-di-no-kpote-only\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"ricky\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/c1239d9432a7365bdc5d12c8402f5657\"},\"headline\":\"Ryohei Kameyama is the third climber of an 9a boulde with the first repeat of No Kpote Only!\",\"datePublished\":\"2019-03-10T00:00:00+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/en\\\/bouldering\\\/news-bouldering\\\/ryohei-kameyama-e-il-terzo-climber-da-9a-boulder-con-la-prima-ripetizione-di-no-kpote-only\\\/\"},\"wordCount\":412,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/en\\\/bouldering\\\/news-bouldering\\\/ryohei-kameyama-e-il-terzo-climber-da-9a-boulder-con-la-prima-ripetizione-di-no-kpote-only\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2022\\\/07\\\/no_kapote_kameyama.jpg\",\"articleSection\":[\"News Boulder\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\"},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/en\\\/bouldering\\\/news-bouldering\\\/ryohei-kameyama-e-il-terzo-climber-da-9a-boulder-con-la-prima-ripetizione-di-no-kpote-only\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/en\\\/bouldering\\\/news-bouldering\\\/ryohei-kameyama-e-il-terzo-climber-da-9a-boulder-con-la-prima-ripetizione-di-no-kpote-only\\\/\",\"name\":\"Ryohei Kameyama is the third climber of an 9a boulde with the first repeat of No Kpote Only! 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