{"id":99048,"date":"2020-05-21T00:00:00","date_gmt":"2020-05-21T00:00:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/falesia\/news-falesia-2\/melissa-leneve-action-direct\/"},"modified":"2020-05-21T00:00:00","modified_gmt":"2020-05-21T00:00:00","slug":"melissa-leneve-action-direct","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/falesia\/news-falesia\/melissa-leneve-action-direct\/","title":{"rendered":"An extraordinary Melissa LeNev\u00e9 signs Action Direct first female ascent!"},"content":{"rendered":"<h5 style=\"text-align: justify\"><em><strong>In Frankenjura, Melissa LeNev&eacute; climbs Wolfgang Gullich&#8217;s Action Direct and becomes the first woman to solve this iconic 9a<\/strong><\/em>.<\/p>\n<\/h5>\n<p>Extraordinary performance for&nbsp;<strong>Melissa LeNev&eacute;<\/strong> in <strong>Frankenjura<\/strong> where she climbed nothing less than <em><strong>Action Direct<\/strong><\/em>, the <strong>first 9a<\/strong> in history that ever, from 1991 to today, had still seen a woman&#8217;s redpoint.<\/p>\n<p>The 30-year-old Frenchwoman, who only a few days ago had the 8c+ of <em><strong>Bionic Commando<\/strong><\/em> in Bavaria, has shifted her attention to this pearl of <strong>Wolgang Gullich<\/strong>, unquestionably the first pitch of this grade in history, resolved by the German ace almost thirty years ago and since then one of the symbolic routes of sport climbing that cannot be missing from a champion&#8217;s curriculum.<\/p>\n<p><em>&#8220;&#8230; What a journey &#8230; what an inspiring person&#8230; what a fight&#8230; but also &ldquo;une histoire d&rsquo;amour&rdquo;&#8230; everything I searched in climbing.<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>I was hoping this moment wiIl arrive for ages. Never I would have imagined how emotional it would be to clip the anchor. I totally fell in love with the process, to solve the puzzle and unlock this jump. So obsessed that it thought me patience. Years of commitment, ups and downs, hope and many doubts.<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>It would never has been possible alone. The frankenjura community welcomed me with an open heart and I&rsquo;m so thankful for it. The support I received from Fabian and my friends was the light on this journey. Those magical moments in the forest that fulfilled my heart for 6 years.&#8221;<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>news melissa instagram page<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>In Frankenjura, Melissa LeNev&eacute; climbs Wolfgang Gullich&#8217;s Action Direct and becomes the first woman to solve this iconic 9a. Extraordinary performance for&nbsp;Melissa LeNev&eacute; in Frankenjura where she climbed nothing less&#8230;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":13,"featured_media":99050,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[8081],"tags":[16617,8388,9278,10637,8814],"class_list":["post-99048","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-news-falesia","tag-bionic-commando","tag-fabian-buhl","tag-frankenjura","tag-melissa-le-neve","tag-wolfgang-gullich"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v28.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>An extraordinary Melissa LeNev\u00e9 signs Action Direct first female ascent! - Up-Climbing<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/crags\/news-crags\/melissa-leneve-action-direct\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"An extraordinary Melissa LeNev\u00e9 signs Action Direct first female ascent! - Up-Climbing\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"In Frankenjura, Melissa LeNev&eacute; climbs Wolfgang Gullich&#8217;s Action Direct and becomes the first woman to solve this iconic 9a. Extraordinary performance for&nbsp;Melissa LeNev&eacute; in Frankenjura where she climbed nothing less...\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/crags\/news-crags\/melissa-leneve-action-direct\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Up-Climbing\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"http:\/\/www.facebook.com\/upclimbing\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2020-05-21T00:00:00+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/65351-4.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"828\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"828\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"ricky\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"ricky\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"1 minute\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/en\\\/crags\\\/news-crags\\\/melissa-leneve-action-direct\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/en\\\/crags\\\/news-crags\\\/melissa-leneve-action-direct\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"ricky\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/c1239d9432a7365bdc5d12c8402f5657\"},\"headline\":\"An extraordinary Melissa LeNev\u00e9 signs Action Direct first female ascent!\",\"datePublished\":\"2020-05-21T00:00:00+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/en\\\/crags\\\/news-crags\\\/melissa-leneve-action-direct\\\/\"},\"wordCount\":265,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/en\\\/crags\\\/news-crags\\\/melissa-leneve-action-direct\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2022\\\/07\\\/65351-4.jpg\",\"keywords\":[\"bionic commando\",\"fabian buhl\",\"frankenjura\",\"melissa le nev\u00e9\",\"wolfgang gullich\"],\"articleSection\":[\"News Falesia\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\"},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/en\\\/crags\\\/news-crags\\\/melissa-leneve-action-direct\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/en\\\/crags\\\/news-crags\\\/melissa-leneve-action-direct\\\/\",\"name\":\"An extraordinary Melissa LeNev\u00e9 signs Action Direct first female ascent! - Up-Climbing\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/#website\"},\"primaryImageOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/en\\\/crags\\\/news-crags\\\/melissa-leneve-action-direct\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/en\\\/crags\\\/news-crags\\\/melissa-leneve-action-direct\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2022\\\/07\\\/65351-4.jpg\",\"datePublished\":\"2020-05-21T00:00:00+00:00\",\"breadcrumb\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/en\\\/crags\\\/news-crags\\\/melissa-leneve-action-direct\\\/#breadcrumb\"},\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"ReadAction\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/en\\\/crags\\\/news-crags\\\/melissa-leneve-action-direct\\\/\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"ImageObject\",\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/en\\\/crags\\\/news-crags\\\/melissa-leneve-action-direct\\\/#primaryimage\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2022\\\/07\\\/65351-4.jpg\",\"contentUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2022\\\/07\\\/65351-4.jpg\",\"width\":828,\"height\":828},{\"@type\":\"BreadcrumbList\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/en\\\/crags\\\/news-crags\\\/melissa-leneve-action-direct\\\/#breadcrumb\",\"itemListElement\":[{\"@type\":\"ListItem\",\"position\":1,\"name\":\"Home\",\"item\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/en\\\/\"},{\"@type\":\"ListItem\",\"position\":2,\"name\":\"An extraordinary Melissa LeNev\u00e9 signs Action Direct first female ascent!\"}]},{\"@type\":\"WebSite\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/#website\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/\",\"name\":\"Up-Climbing\",\"description\":\"Il vero portale dedicato allo sport di montagna\",\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/#organization\"},\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"SearchAction\",\"target\":{\"@type\":\"EntryPoint\",\"urlTemplate\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/?s={search_term_string}\"},\"query-input\":{\"@type\":\"PropertyValueSpecification\",\"valueRequired\":true,\"valueName\":\"search_term_string\"}}],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\"},{\"@type\":\"Organization\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/#organization\",\"name\":\"UP CLIMBING by Versante Sud\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/\",\"logo\":{\"@type\":\"ImageObject\",\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/logo\\\/image\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2022\\\/07\\\/logo-dark.png\",\"contentUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2022\\\/07\\\/logo-dark.png\",\"width\":500,\"height\":360,\"caption\":\"UP CLIMBING by Versante Sud\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/logo\\\/image\\\/\"},\"sameAs\":[\"http:\\\/\\\/www.facebook.com\\\/upclimbing\\\/\"]},{\"@type\":\"Person\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/c1239d9432a7365bdc5d12c8402f5657\",\"name\":\"ricky\",\"image\":{\"@type\":\"ImageObject\",\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/secure.gravatar.com\\\/avatar\\\/6998f9d5191dec9aaa6d13987f83ed5a4286b410937ff2c6f5ffd6a1b5451a9a?s=96&d=mm&r=g\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/secure.gravatar.com\\\/avatar\\\/6998f9d5191dec9aaa6d13987f83ed5a4286b410937ff2c6f5ffd6a1b5451a9a?s=96&d=mm&r=g\",\"contentUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/secure.gravatar.com\\\/avatar\\\/6998f9d5191dec9aaa6d13987f83ed5a4286b410937ff2c6f5ffd6a1b5451a9a?s=96&d=mm&r=g\",\"caption\":\"ricky\"},\"sameAs\":[\"http:\\\/\\\/up-climbing.com\"],\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.up-climbing.com\\\/en\\\/author\\\/ricky\\\/\"}]}<\/script>\n<!-- \/ Yoast SEO plugin. -->","yoast_head_json":{"title":"An extraordinary Melissa LeNev\u00e9 signs Action Direct first female ascent! - Up-Climbing","robots":{"index":"index","follow":"follow","max-snippet":"max-snippet:-1","max-image-preview":"max-image-preview:large","max-video-preview":"max-video-preview:-1"},"canonical":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/crags\/news-crags\/melissa-leneve-action-direct\/","og_locale":"en_US","og_type":"article","og_title":"An extraordinary Melissa LeNev\u00e9 signs Action Direct first female ascent! - Up-Climbing","og_description":"In Frankenjura, Melissa LeNev&eacute; climbs Wolfgang Gullich&#8217;s Action Direct and becomes the first woman to solve this iconic 9a. Extraordinary performance for&nbsp;Melissa LeNev&eacute; in Frankenjura where she climbed nothing less...","og_url":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/crags\/news-crags\/melissa-leneve-action-direct\/","og_site_name":"Up-Climbing","article_publisher":"http:\/\/www.facebook.com\/upclimbing\/","article_published_time":"2020-05-21T00:00:00+00:00","og_image":[{"width":828,"height":828,"url":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/65351-4.jpg","type":"image\/jpeg"}],"author":"ricky","twitter_card":"summary_large_image","twitter_misc":{"Written by":"ricky","Est. reading time":"1 minute"},"schema":{"@context":"https:\/\/schema.org","@graph":[{"@type":"Article","@id":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/crags\/news-crags\/melissa-leneve-action-direct\/#article","isPartOf":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/crags\/news-crags\/melissa-leneve-action-direct\/"},"author":{"name":"ricky","@id":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/#\/schema\/person\/c1239d9432a7365bdc5d12c8402f5657"},"headline":"An extraordinary Melissa LeNev\u00e9 signs Action Direct first female ascent!","datePublished":"2020-05-21T00:00:00+00:00","mainEntityOfPage":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/crags\/news-crags\/melissa-leneve-action-direct\/"},"wordCount":265,"publisher":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/#organization"},"image":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/crags\/news-crags\/melissa-leneve-action-direct\/#primaryimage"},"thumbnailUrl":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/65351-4.jpg","keywords":["bionic commando","fabian buhl","frankenjura","melissa le nev\u00e9","wolfgang gullich"],"articleSection":["News Falesia"],"inLanguage":"en-US"},{"@type":"WebPage","@id":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/crags\/news-crags\/melissa-leneve-action-direct\/","url":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/crags\/news-crags\/melissa-leneve-action-direct\/","name":"An extraordinary Melissa LeNev\u00e9 signs Action Direct first female ascent! - Up-Climbing","isPartOf":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/#website"},"primaryImageOfPage":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/crags\/news-crags\/melissa-leneve-action-direct\/#primaryimage"},"image":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/crags\/news-crags\/melissa-leneve-action-direct\/#primaryimage"},"thumbnailUrl":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/65351-4.jpg","datePublished":"2020-05-21T00:00:00+00:00","breadcrumb":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/crags\/news-crags\/melissa-leneve-action-direct\/#breadcrumb"},"inLanguage":"en-US","potentialAction":[{"@type":"ReadAction","target":["https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/crags\/news-crags\/melissa-leneve-action-direct\/"]}]},{"@type":"ImageObject","inLanguage":"en-US","@id":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/crags\/news-crags\/melissa-leneve-action-direct\/#primaryimage","url":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/65351-4.jpg","contentUrl":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/65351-4.jpg","width":828,"height":828},{"@type":"BreadcrumbList","@id":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/crags\/news-crags\/melissa-leneve-action-direct\/#breadcrumb","itemListElement":[{"@type":"ListItem","position":1,"name":"Home","item":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/"},{"@type":"ListItem","position":2,"name":"An extraordinary Melissa LeNev\u00e9 signs Action Direct first female ascent!"}]},{"@type":"WebSite","@id":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/#website","url":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/","name":"Up-Climbing","description":"Il vero portale dedicato allo sport di montagna","publisher":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/#organization"},"potentialAction":[{"@type":"SearchAction","target":{"@type":"EntryPoint","urlTemplate":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/?s={search_term_string}"},"query-input":{"@type":"PropertyValueSpecification","valueRequired":true,"valueName":"search_term_string"}}],"inLanguage":"en-US"},{"@type":"Organization","@id":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/#organization","name":"UP CLIMBING by Versante Sud","url":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/","logo":{"@type":"ImageObject","inLanguage":"en-US","@id":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/#\/schema\/logo\/image\/","url":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/logo-dark.png","contentUrl":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/logo-dark.png","width":500,"height":360,"caption":"UP CLIMBING by Versante Sud"},"image":{"@id":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/#\/schema\/logo\/image\/"},"sameAs":["http:\/\/www.facebook.com\/upclimbing\/"]},{"@type":"Person","@id":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/#\/schema\/person\/c1239d9432a7365bdc5d12c8402f5657","name":"ricky","image":{"@type":"ImageObject","inLanguage":"en-US","@id":"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/6998f9d5191dec9aaa6d13987f83ed5a4286b410937ff2c6f5ffd6a1b5451a9a?s=96&d=mm&r=g","url":"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/6998f9d5191dec9aaa6d13987f83ed5a4286b410937ff2c6f5ffd6a1b5451a9a?s=96&d=mm&r=g","contentUrl":"https:\/\/secure.gravatar.com\/avatar\/6998f9d5191dec9aaa6d13987f83ed5a4286b410937ff2c6f5ffd6a1b5451a9a?s=96&d=mm&r=g","caption":"ricky"},"sameAs":["http:\/\/up-climbing.com"],"url":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/author\/ricky\/"}]}},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/99048","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/13"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=99048"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/99048\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/99050"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=99048"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=99048"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.up-climbing.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=99048"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}