Malcolm Bass, Paul Figg and Guy Buckingham on top of the inviolated Janhukot (6805m)

The three English climb for the first time this mountain of the Indian Himalayas

23 June 2018
The British Malcolm Bass, Paul Figg and Guy Buckingham have recently reached the summit of the Janhukot (6805m), unclimbed peak of the Indian Himalayas.


On 6th June, the three climbers Malcolm Bass, Paul Figg and Guy Buckingham set foot on the summit of Janhukot, a remote mountain in the north of India, located in a truly hidden area and only in recent years has it been discovered.
Located at the end of the Gangotri glacier, beyond the more known and difficult Shivling (6543m), it is close to a nameless peak and to the Chaukhambas, four peaks around 7000 meters high. The first evidence of this mountain dates back to the '80s when an Indian team reports its existence for the first time and then another Austrian in 2002. It is only in 2004, however, the first serious attempt to climb it just by Bass and Figg that together with Andy Brown reached about 6000 meters going up from the south-west. In 2014, Malcom Bass returned this time with Simon Yearsley and reached 6400 meters before the cold and very strong winds did not force them to descend. To reach the base of the wall it is necessary to walk for 18 kilometers along the Gangotri glacier, which this year was particularly snow covered.

Bass, Figg and Buckingham left with photographer Hamish Frost and Pemba Sherpa who accompanied them to base camp. After a first moment of good weather, the three had to face also an incoming disturbance that brought wind and wet snow that at times became real rain. However, accustomed to the Scottish weather, the three went ahead and at 17.00 on 6th June put their feet on top, thus closing a cycle started 14 years earlier.

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